2020 CX-5 Suspension sounds - Any ideas?

[sorc]

Hey community!

I've been browsing my issue for weeks with no answer... 2020 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD (47k miles odo).
I hope any of you may have more ideas about the issue the dealer says cannot be replicated (the warranty is almost over). I believe that all of these are coming from the same issue, and what is interesting is that I can hear it only during the dry, warm times of the year (yeah, I live in SoCal, so most of the time...) - when the rain is coming, no weird sounds anymore...

1. Video attached - Slow start from the lights (usually with some inclination) with a bumpy road when the car is swaying on one side - a squicky/metallic sound
2. After some time of daily driving, immediate hitting the brakes hard (usually driving down a steep street) causes one-time very harsh grinding (or the sound of cracking/extending something). It's kind of like ABS, but it's not (I heard it before ABS started).
3. Having a slow but sharp left U-turn also causes a noticeable cracking/expanding noise (similar to no. 2). Sometimes, instead just one "pop" sound (which is typical for many Mazdas, so I don't want to confuse it)

All of these are coming from the driver's side of the suspension. I tightened many screws, including cowl bolts, etc. At first glance, there is nothing wrong, and it is all good. Besides these sounds, the suspension/steering works perfectly fine. The issues have been there forever (they appeared after the first year of operation), and it's not worsening much since then.

I'd appreciate all your replies with ideas or just guessing what it would be if you had any of the above (or from the video attached). Thank you so much!!!

 

[N7turbo]

It doesn't sound like 1 and 2 would be related, but can you share a recording of 2 and 3?

 

[sorc]

It doesn't sound like 1 and 2 would be related, but can you share a recording of 2 and 3?

It's always odd because I need to wait a couple of days again to reproduce the sounds 2 and 3. It looks like after a hard braking the 2 & 3 are resolved for a while, and then again, I can reproduce that issue. I will try to record the video next time (I hope soon) and share it. I'm sure it's not the rust sound on the rotors but a cracking/metal expanding sound (there is no rainy season yet here in SoCal to create any new rust on rotors).

You may be right that 1 and 2/3 are not related but started at the same time a while ago. However, issue 1 can be replicated every day when taking off from lights (slow speed only) in the inclination with bumpy/potholes road (and only when I drive straight, never when turning the steering wheel)

 

[ceric]

Don't worry about the warranty since you already reported this issues to dealer. It is in their record.

On to the issue. You can bring it to other Mazda dealers if possible.
Sounds to me something is loose in the suspension.

 

[200955]

Hey community!

I've been browsing my issue for weeks with no answer... 2020 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD (47k miles odo).
I hope any of you may have more ideas about the issue the dealer says cannot be replicated (the warranty is almost over). I believe that all of these are coming from the same issue, and what is interesting is that I can hear it only during the dry, warm times of the year (yeah, I live in SoCal, so most of the time...) - when the rain is coming, no weird sounds anymore...

1. Video attached - Slow start from the lights (usually with some inclination) with a bumpy road when the car is swaying on one side - a squicky/metallic sound
2. After some time of daily driving, immediate hitting the brakes hard (usually driving down a steep street) causes one-time very harsh grinding (or the sound of cracking/extending something). It's kind of like ABS, but it's not (I heard it before ABS started).
3. Having a slow but sharp left U-turn also causes a noticeable cracking/expanding noise (similar to no. 2). Sometimes, instead just one "pop" sound (which is typical for many Mazdas, so I don't want to confuse it)

All of these are coming from the driver's side of the suspension. I tightened many screws, including cowl bolts, etc. At first glance, there is nothing wrong, and it is all good. Besides these sounds, the suspension/steering works perfectly fine. The issues have been there forever (they appeared after the first year of operation), and it's not worsening much since then.

I'd appreciate all your replies with ideas or just guessing what it would be if you had any of the above (or from the video attached). Thank you so much!!!

On my 2018 I had the same issue. First I re-torqued all sub-frame bolts to factory specs - some were not up to specs. Don't forget the one in the middle below the rear motor mount. Using this area as a jacking point ( it actually is ) must cause a thread stretch as it was not in spec. Lastly I torqued the four bolts on the strut brace ( just in front of the cowl ) which were very loose. I did not have the torque spec so I used Loctite and went to 48 ft.lbs. I also checked the drop links for the stabilizer bar as they tend to knock when the plastic socket wears. Finally I did the lower control arm bolts for factory spec. These are a bear (especially the front one) and take a lot of torque that you can look up - a 24" torque wrench is required. This is best a dealer job as these wrenches are by no means cheap. Before trorqueing these arms, check their rear rubber bushings for splits, tears and any other damage. No point checking the torque if the arm needs changing. do not discount an issue with a loose strut or it's center nut or even the bearing plate on top the strut tube. Sometimes noises are merely a broken spring or split rubber spring seat. I believe what I'm saying is this is not an easy issue to diagnose so you have to check every fastener and bushing for an issue. Took me 6 months to find the problem which was the tower strut brace - who'd think that.

 

[N7turbo]

Finally I did the lower control arm bolts for factory spec. These are a bear (especially the front one) and take a lot of torque that you can look up - a 24" torque wrench is required. This is best a dealer job as these wrenches are by no means cheap.

Get yourself a 1/2" breaker bar and a Quinn 1/2" digital torque adapter.

This has made getting my wheels off and on a breeze and assuming you have room and a good angle, can be used for other things. I used it on my lower strut bolts too which require 175 lb ft.

 

[sorc]

On my 2018 I had the same issue. First I re-torqued all sub-frame bolts to factory specs - some were not up to specs. Don't forget the one in the middle below the rear motor mount. Using this area as a jacking point ( it actually is ) must cause a thread stretch as it was not in spec. Lastly I torqued the four bolts on the strut brace ( just in front of the cowl ) which were very loose. I did not have the torque spec so I used Loctite and went to 48 ft.lbs. I also checked the drop links for the stabilizer bar as they tend to knock when the plastic socket wears. Finally I did the lower control arm bolts for factory spec. These are a bear (especially the front one) and take a lot of torque that you can look up - a 24" torque wrench is required. This is best a dealer job as these wrenches are by no means cheap. Before trorqueing these arms, check their rear rubber bushings for splits, tears and any other damage. No point checking the torque if the arm needs changing. do not discount an issue with a loose strut or it's center nut or even the bearing plate on top the strut tube. Sometimes noises are merely a broken spring or split rubber spring seat. I believe what I'm saying is this is not an easy issue to diagnose so you have to check every fastener and bushing for an issue. Took me 6 months to find the problem which was the tower strut brace - who'd think that.

@Logidad Thank you for the really comprehensive reply and suggestions! Can you clarify what is the exact tower strut brace? Upper bolts of the strut? Any image from google to make sure I understood it correctly? Next to cowl bolts? Thanks!

 

[sorc]

It doesn't sound like 1 and 2 would be related, but can you share a recording of 2 and 3?

I caught today a sound of #2 - video attached - driving down the street in declination (always it's like that) and hitting harder the brakes - the sound of cracking/expanding, but it's not ABS (similar to it, but it's before I block the wheels).

Thanks!

 

[N7turbo]

That sounds terrible. It doesn't sound like ABS at all; it sounds like your car is falling apart . I don't hear the grinding, but I hear some loud clunks.

 

[sorc]

That sounds terrible. It doesn't sound like ABS at all; it sounds like your car is falling apart . I don't hear the grinding, but I hear some loud clunks.

It's always when you don't break hard for a while and then hit the brakes . It's been there for 1-2 years and depends on dry or wet conditions as well... Always, my Mazda had some sounds that I can't explain, like all of these three mentioned in the post.

 

[N7turbo]

Number one sounds like a front spring or shock absorber. Check if either the rubber seat at the bottom of the spring or the spring silencer at the top are deteriorated.

Number two could possibly also be a front strut. Maybe these are related. It sounds like something's loose and knocking. Did these sounds ever begin after you had work done? Maybe something wasn't tightened properly. It's happened to me. The top three nuts on each should be torqued to around 43 lb ft and the big boys at the bottom should be around 170 lb ft.

At any rate you may find this helpful:

 

[200955]

Get yourself a 1/2" breaker bar and a Quinn 1/2" digital torque adapter.

This has made getting my wheels off and on a breeze and assuming you have room and a good angle, can be used for other things. I used it on my lower strut bolts too which require 175 lb ft.

This type of adapter will not work. On close inspection of where the front A-arm bolt is you would never get this adapter in with a socket on it. If you put it on the end of a 10" extension you's lose torque through the extension. If you've ever done this procedure you would understand what I am saying. My set up from the bolt head to the torque wrench: shallow impact socket, wobbly swivel adapter, 10 inch black extension supported by scissor jack just before the torque wrench then 10 pounds more than factory spec to account for any lost flex torque from wrench to bolt. You need to support the extension to keep things in line and exert the torque. Either that or just pound away with your impact wrench and hope for the best. Wheels and strut bolts, no problem. At $49 would you really trust those things?

 

[sm1ke]

I think it's the front driver's side balljoint. As far as I can tell, the balljoints can't be greased and need to be replaced. Balljoints on their way out sound just like the noises in your video. I wonder if there's some corrosion or something that got in there and is causing the noise?

If you can, jack the car up and inspect the balljoint.

 

[N7turbo]

This type of adapter will not work.

It's working great for me for the examples I gave.

Whether it will work for other things, you'll have to test. But it's the best bang for the buck I could come up with and it's been solid. Taking the wheels off and putting them back on is a breeze.

At $49 would you really trust those things?

They have been tested and are very accurate. And, they never lose calibration, unlike dedicated torque wrenches. I have the 3/8" and 1/2" drive models to pop onto any wrench or bar as needed. The only thing they don't do is tight spaces. Because the adapter effectively makes a torque wrench with a very large head, you'll want a dedicated TW in restricted spaces. Another option and what I did is pick up an Icon 1/2" swiveling ratchet to use with it for the brake caliper bolts, among other things.

 

[N7turbo]

I think it's the front driver's side balljoint.

You think it would sound like a creaky spring as in video 1?

 

[sm1ke]

Another option and what I did is pick up an Icon 1/2" swiveling ratchet to use with it for the brake caliper bolts, among other things.

I have the Icon swiveling ratchet with the comport grip, got it recently during a road trip to the US. I love it for wheel lugs, so nice to be able to thread them on and hand tighten using the ratchet.

 

[sm1ke]

You think it would sound like a creaky spring as in video 1?

I do. If it were spring related, OP should be able to hear it going down the road. If it only happens accelerating from a stop or while braking, it's more likely to be the balljoint. Needs to be inspected to be 100% sure though.

 

[200955]

I think it's the front driver's side balljoint. As far as I can tell, the balljoints can't be greased and need to be replaced. Balljoints on their way out sound just like the noises in your video. I wonder if there's some corrosion or something that got in there and is causing the noise?

If you can, jack the car up and inspect the balljoint.

By raising the tire off the ground on the offending side, place a long bar or 2x4 under the tire and jounce it up and down. You,ll hear it knock if really bad or can see the play in the joint if just starting to go. For joints with no grease zerk, get a needle fitting that goes in the tip of nozzle on your grease gun (Amazon). Push the needle through the rubber at the bottom of the joint boot and pump until it comes out the hole where you inserted the needle. Repeat 180 degrees around the boot on the other side. You must do this with the suspension unloaded and the needle slanted slightly towards the ball end. You need to know weather the actuall ball of the joint is on the top or bottom of the assembly. The boot will swell indicating successful greasing and I recommend "Moly type grease" Load the suspension by lowering the wheels. When the grease finishes oozing out, wipe the spot with brake clean and put a yellow dot with a paint stick over the spot where the needle went in. You'll see a black dot (the insertion hole)in the middle of a yellow dot allowing you to use this spot over again. Don't try drilling and tapping as some idiots have indicated, or you'll contaminate the top of the ball in the joint with metal. My tip of the day and it's cheaper than lower A-arms just to get a ball joint that's never been greased.