2020 CX-5 sub/amp install with Bose system...Questions

Hello! New owner of the CX5. I removed the sub/amp from my previous vehicle and now I'm wanting to install on the Mazda. My CX5 has the Bose system and I've read a few posts about some PAC attachment? Do I HAVE to buy it? I just want to re-use my hardware, slice into some wires, and go about my day. Should I splice into the wires that connect to the tuner/amp that's near the glovebox or splice into the wires in the back for the Bose "sub"? Thanks!
 
You don't need the PAC, depending on how accurate you want your bass to be. The biggest question though, is does your amplifier accept hi-level (speaker level) inputs? If so, then you don't need the PAC. Just use the existing subwoofer output leads into the hi-level input. I did this for a 2013 Mazdaspeed 3 for a friend and he loved it. If you could post what amplifier you have, it would help me answer your questions with more depth.

From amp to subwoofer should be self explanatory. Let us know if you need help in terms of installing the power wire (hardest part of any install, IMO...). I just did it this past weekend.
 
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You don't need the PAC, depending on how accurate you want your bass to be. The biggest question though, is does your amplifier accept hi-level (speaker level) inputs? If so, then you don't need the PAC. Just use the existing subwoofer output leads into the hi-level input. I did this for a 2013 Mazdaspeed 3 for a friend and he loved it. If you could post what amplifier you have, it would help me answer your questions with more depth.

From amp to subwoofer should be self explanatory. Let us know if you need help in terms of installing the power wire (hardest part of any install, IMO...). I just did it this past weekend.
Hello! I have a Kicker CXA 400.1 and a Scosche LOC90. I just want to be able to adjust the bass up and down. I have the LOC spliced in the the TAU near the glovebox
 
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South Carolina
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12 MZ5 13 CX-5
The LOC is completely unnecessary. From Kicker's website:
"CX.1 Amplifiers accept up to 40 volts (400 watts) of speaker-level input signal. This kind of flexibility both makes line-out converters unnecessary and optimizes your sound quality at the same time!"

The amp should also have a remote level control to adjust the sub volume.
 
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The LOC is completely unnecessary. From Kicker's website:
"CX.1 Amplifiers accept up to 40 volts (400 watts) of speaker-level input signal. This kind of flexibility both makes line-out converters unnecessary and optimizes your sound quality at the same time!"

The amp should also have a remote level control to adjust the sub volume.
If the LOC is unnecessary how do I get sound to go to the amp/sub? And I do have the knob to adjust the bass
 
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South Carolina
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12 MZ5 13 CX-5
Dude, that installation is terrible. I'm not kidding. It's not going to last. The ground is beyond horrible, someone used scotch-lok connectors, and it looks like someone burnt some wiring already!

The owners manual clearly explains why you don't need an LOC, and the proper way to get signal into the amp.

You seriously need to get your installation to a professional shop that knows what they're doing, because whomever installed that did you an absolute disservice. 😞
 
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Dude, that installation is terrible. I'm not kidding. It's not going to last. The ground is beyond horrible, someone used scotch-lok connectors, and it looks like someone burnt some wiring already!

The owners manual clearly explains why you don't need an LOC, and the proper way to get signal into the amp.

You seriously need to get your installation to a professional shop that knows what they're doing, because whomever installed that did you an absolute disservice. 😞
I did the install myself. Besides adding the terminals, and slightly burned heat shrink, it's no different than how I had it installed on my previous vehicle and it worked just fine for over two years 👌🏽 I'm gonna swing by an audio shop anyway tomorrow cause I don't want to redo everything for the third time trying to figure out what's wrong
 
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2nd on redoing the install. It's mainly for a safety perspective. To each their own. Regarding speaker level install, Kicker requires a speaker wire to RCA adapter. If you already have the LOC, that's fine. IMO, I recommend to remove the LOC, and use the adapter mentioned. It makes things easier, as you don't have to power and ground another unit (LOC).

To trouble shoot what's wrong, there's a button for speaker input. When using the LOC, make sure the input is set to "Lo." Try that to see if it works.

If you're going to redo it and use the speaker wire to RCA adapter, make sure the setting is set to "Hi."

One last question. What exactly is wrong? Are you not getting any signal? Is your bass knob not working?

Install tip; I like using wire ferrules vs terminals for the power/ground. With speaker wire, it depends on the amp. If it's a plate that screws down, I do like using flat terminals and soldering.

edit; solder the speaker wires to the terminal ends, not amp! xD
 
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2nd on redoing the install. It's mainly for a safety perspective. To each their own. Regarding speaker level install, Kicker requires a speaker wire to RCA adapter. If you already have the LOC, that's fine. IMO, I recommend to remove the LOC, and use the adapter mentioned. It makes things easier, as you don't have to power and ground another unit (LOC).

To trouble shoot what's wrong, there's a button for speaker input. When using the LOC, make sure the input is set to "Lo." Try that to see if it works.

If you're going to redo it and use the speaker wire to RCA adapter, make sure the setting is set to "Hi."

One last question. What exactly is wrong? Are you not getting any signal? Is your bass knob not working?

Install tip; I like using wire ferrules vs terminals for the power/ground. With speaker wire, it depends on the amp. If it's a plate that screws down, I do like using flat terminals and soldering.
Thanks for the input, I am going to redo both grounds.

The issue I'm having is that the red protection light comes on for a second or two and in that time the green power light barely flickers and then both lights turn off. I'm assuming it has to do with my bad grounds
 
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Now we're talking! Yes, redo the grounds. Use sandpaper or paint thinner on the metal as well. When there's a coat of paint over the chassis, it won't ground properly. This may actually be the issue.

Another thing... Why are there 2 wires going into the 12V/Power of your amplifier? Please do NOT test your amp/LOC after redoing the grounds. Let us help!!! Last thing we'd want is for your car to be set ablaze!
 
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South Carolina
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12 MZ5 13 CX-5
Also, make sure you have an appropriately sized fuse on your main power wire, as close to the battery as you can.

Where did you run the power wire through the firewall?
 
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Also, make sure you have an appropriately sized fuse on your main power wire, as close to the battery as you can.

Where did you run the power wire through the firewall?
The fuse on the power cable came with the amp when I ordered it through crutchfield. It has about 7 inches of cable between it and the battery. I drilled a hole near the main grommet for the cable, has a grommet to keep it from chaffing and water coming in.
 
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Hi I run 2 amps off one power line 4AWG split with a proper block splitter ( around £7 in uk and run 8AWG to each amp - amps have there own fusing so covered and I have 4AWG fused at battery within 9” 80A in-line - looks much more professional and is tidy under passenger seat - only issue I had was the size of my original amp ( I had to lift 1.5” ) due to heater / cooler vents under seats - so watch size of amp👀 - also if you are splicing in front of amp no loc required just solder in RCA,s for sub ( voltage is only around 3.2 within parameters of most amps) I only used LOC for my 4 channel off output side of factory amp so that I did not lose any functionality - sat Nav fader etc. Well worth spending a little time - also I ran grounds from sub and 4 channel to the same point just to ensure no loops in system ( seat belt anchor bolts) after thoroughly cleaning paint back to metal at this position and finished off with a little clear lacquer to seal after install.

thanks Phil 🇬🇧
 
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Foot note - looking at picture of ground near amp although I can see you have cleaned back the tab you have connected to - is the tab itself where it is attached to main chassis ( weld) painted/ sealed)? I have been caught out with this one in the past. My amps are both grounded to my rear seat belt anchor positions direct to main floor pan chassis - thoroughly cleaned back with wire brush head then terminal bolted down tight with star washer between seat belt bolt and original fitting to ensure no movement - this was a fairly easy method and both grounds from boot and under seat only around 28” - ps if amp under seat watch size if a- b type - I had to lift mine slightly and to side of heater - cooler vent - in winter warm air could cause cooling issues for amp - was a little tricky but can be done - I just fabricated a couple of brackets from some old stainless bars I had knocking about - just watch overall height clearance with seat frame - when done it also gave me option to run looms under amp out of view and terminate tidily into amp where seen - bit of prep always pays dividends - fit and forget - hope you solve your issues - let us all know how you get on - some really good advice previous - and I am not to proud to say we don’t all know it all - we just learn by our mistakes - of which I have made many in the past 👀 Phil
 
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If the LOC is unnecessary how do I get sound to go to the amp/sub? And I do have the knob to adjust the bass
For sub input if you use the front speaker cables in front of factory or Bose amp in footwell you can either run direct to sub amp if it has hi level inputs or just solder / attach rca plugs direct to the sub amps rca inputs as the voltage in front of the factory amp on mine and I would say generally is around 3.2V and most sub amps will accept this direct - just check your amps specs ( input usually around 2.8 to 7.8V). I only used a 4 way LOC on the output side of the cx5 factory unit to my 4 channel amp to avoid losing sat Nav fade etc. If you want to add amp for new door speakers etc and still retain factory speaker wiring you can just cut into speaker wiring on output side and run to new amp through LOC and then run speaker outputs from new amp back into factory wiring where you have cut into originally - loop from under amp and back again - simples - except there is not an awful lot of room so be careful as you complete….. 👍
 
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South Carolina
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12 MZ5 13 CX-5
Nearly no new amplifier today requires a LOC. Off of the top of my head, I can't think of a single one (that's worth having) that requires one. Interfacing directly with factory head units, which often can't be changed, is so common today, that finding an amp that can't take a speaker level input is extremely rare anymore.

About the only worthwhile LOC type of device anymore would be a DSP that sums all of the often heavily processed factory stereo signals and outputs a clean, stable signal. Something like the JL Audio Fix 86, AudioControl DM-810, Focal FSP-8, or Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3. The days of needing a $20 LOC to wire in an amp is long over.
 
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Yep bang on - I wasn’t sure of the amp “JCES” was using but I fitted DSP type LOC (Helix) which I bought direct from German outlet at a Very reasonable price - (except for Boris’s customs taxes into UK!!) so I could adjust the signal curve slightly on the low end -adjust time alignment and separate channels - 4 in 6 out - I did not add this in because this is a whole new topic to discuss - pro’s and cons and of course cost - not cheap items and will depend on the sound curve you are trying to achieve and how fussy you are ? as you say most modern amps don’t require standard LOC,s these days but some factory set ups do build in a low end bass cut off to protect their cheap paper low current speakers - even Bose !!
Phil 🇬🇧
 
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