2019 CX-5 signature first oil change - conventional or synthetic?

I just brought in my 19 CX-5 signature for its first oil change at the dealership (sitting in the waiting area now).

I was under the impression that they would be putting 5w-30 full synthetic in it, but when asked, I was told the 5w-30 they have is conventional (front desk called and asked someone to confirm).

From other threads I've read other people's experience say they got synthetic, and I would have assumed that they have both conventional and synthetic lying around for service sales uplift. Is that not the case at the dealerships?

If that's the case I'll probably be doing my own oil changes with full synthetic after this and only bring it in for major maintenance and skip the oil change.
 
The manual for my 2018 CX-9 doesn't specify synthetic, and I assume it is the same for the CX-5. Conventional can be used as long as it meets the specifications, but generally with a turbocharged car, synthetic provides better protection as it can handle heat better.

I would push for them to fill with synthetic since you're still at the dealership. They should have no problem accommodating your request. If they fight you on it, let them know you won't be back for future service/warranty/recall work. I do my own oil and oil filter changes with full synthetic 5w30 and OEM Mazda filters, and I'll do my own engine and cabin air filters as well. I would only do brake and fluid service at the dealer, and that's just because I haven't researched enough to DIY (yet).

Good luck!
 
My impression is that while the manual may not explicitly spec "full synthetic" 0w-20 with the required SN+ api is basically impossible to buy except as at least a synthetic blend.

Some people say conventional oil is ok for certain situations but synthetic is not that much more expensive.
 
Go and ask for fully synthetic 5w30.
The turbo will appreciate it. I wouldnt ever put conventional oil in modern turbo and vvti engines

p.s. 0w20 is for the non-turbo model.
5w30 is for the turbo. Signature and GTR are all turbo.
 
I would give it at least 5k mikes on mineral oil and then switch to an outstanding synthetic. Let the engine polish itself a little. Mobil1 in 5W-30 is an oitstanding synthetic oil and readily available.
 
I was under the impression that they would be putting 5w-30 full synthetic in it, but when asked, I was told the 5w-30 they have is conventional (front desk called and asked someone to confirm).

Conventional=sludge in modern engines=bad. Especially turbos.
Dealers buy in bulk (what's cheap for them), and, in only one or two flavors of 'what's most popular'. They'll pump into your car what ever they have in their drums and not necessarily what's best for your car. I'll bet you paid as though it were a full-syn oil change...
 
Run away and find a different dealer. There's no excuse for not stocking full syn as an option for any customer who requests it.
 
That is unfounded and absolutely untrue. A good synthetic is a superior oil, but mineral oil is by no means deficient.

I can refer you to a few pre-sale inspection mechanics (my brother and his team) at one of the east coast's largest auction houses if you need an education on sludge in modern engines that roll through there. Dino juice is not formulated for most modern engines. People will follow the manufacturer's recommended OCI schedule (if you're lucky). 0W-20 or 5W-20 conventional oil, at 7500 mile OCIs to boot, seriously? How many folks routinely have their oil analyzed to establish a base line and then to see just how far they can go on any oil? I sure don't.

Unfounded you say? You'd be astonished to know just how many low mileage leased vehicles are flagged for sludge, in this day and age. Many are high end leased vehicles...oil not changed at all, and/or, improper oil. Once flagged, they're nearly worthless...banks and manufacturers that own them don't care to hear that type of info prior to auctioning them off. Often, the vehicles end up in arbitration and then the detective work begins to figure out who's at fault, and who's gonna pay.
 
Go and ask for fully synthetic 5w30.
The turbo will appreciate it. I wouldnt ever put conventional oil in modern turbo and vvti engines

p.s. 0w20 is for the non-turbo model.
5w30 is for the turbo. Signature and GTR are all turbo.
‘The Mazda branded 5w30 is not synthetic,the 0w20 is.....makes no sense,the recommended oil for turbo 5w30 is not syn! see thread in general topics
 
..........

Unfounded you say? You'd be astonished to know just how many low mileage leased vehicles are flagged for sludge, in this day and age. Many are high end leased vehicles...oil not changed at all, and/or, improper oil. ....

I think that's the point. You can run synthetic oil longer, generally, but they all need changing.
 
The point and the reality...neglect is far more prevalent among the masses. The few members posting on these types of forums care, vast majority don't. I can't tell you how many people I converse with that have no idea what type of oil belongs in their engine, when it was changed last, or when its next oil change is due. Which is completely in line with the conversations I engage in with my brother regarding the conditions of dozens upon dozens of the thousands of vehicles that flow through the auction monthly.

Modern engines will not tolerate the neglect. Would putting conventional oil in our cars, if it even exists, suffice? Meeting all of the lube requirements Mazda (or any manufacturer today) expects? The things like GDI, CD, VVT, and tiny turbos on small mass produced engines require? Dino oil merely compounds the issues of lubrication in today's overly complicated engines. At the additional cost of fractions of a penny per mile per OCI, why would anyone even consider anything but the best full syn ol you can find to satisfy the lube requirements of a new(er) complicated engine?

I've been running the same Valvoline synthetic blend, which is getting very difficult to find locally, in my 20hp Kohler garden tractor engine for 26 years. 1000 hours on it and the engine has zero issues, no noises, no leaks, and I have gone far longer than I should have between OCs a few times. 26 years of weekly cuttings of over an acre and then running it for plowing snow a handful of times in the winters.
 
I have questioned this with my dealer also. The service manager told me Mazda recommends their 5w30 for the 2.5T, which is a blend (or so this person states). I purchased a bottle to see for myself at the first oil change. Nowhere on the bottle is it stated that the oil it contains is a synthetic blend. Anyways, at the second oil change, I speak once again with the service manager after I had asked specifically for 5w30 full-synthetic. Again he stated that Mazda does not recommend full synthetic for the 2.5T. I asked why is that, and he just said that this is what Mazda told him to put in their turbo engines. Well, since I change the oil every 3750miles, I figure that, for now, it probably makes little to no difference. That being said, at 8,000 miles right now, I will likely be switching dealers if I find another one in reasonable distance who will definitely use 5w30 synthetic oil.
 
I will likely be switching dealers if I find another one in reasonable distance who will definitely use 5w30 synthetic oil.
Just bring 5 liters of your favorite full synthetic and tell them to use it. Of course they might just stash your oil and use the cheap crap. So use the Liqui Moly New Generation 5W-30 oil - great stuff. It is greenish because it has green UV dye which is intended to help trace leaks. But it can be used to verify that the oil was used.

Or DIY, just keep the receipts.
 
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I have questioned this with my dealer also. The service manager told me Mazda recommends their 5w30 for the 2.5T, which is a blend (or so this person states). I purchased a bottle to see for myself at the first oil change. Nowhere on the bottle is it stated that the oil it contains is a synthetic blend. Anyways, at the second oil change, I speak once again with the service manager after I had asked specifically for 5w30 full-synthetic. Again he stated that Mazda does not recommend full synthetic for the 2.5T. I asked why is that, and he just said that this is what Mazda told him to put in their turbo engines. Well, since I change the oil every 3750miles, I figure that, for now, it probably makes little to no difference. That being said, at 8,000 miles right now, I will likely be switching dealers if I find another one in reasonable distance who will definitely use 5w30 synthetic oil.
VWoA and Audi USA didn’t specify full synthetic 5W-30 oil to their 1.8T with recommended 7,500-mile OCI years ago until the sludge issue was surfaced. The result was a class action lawsuit and they have to fix the problem for free. I hope Mazda North American Operations won’t get caught in the same situation later. Always use full synthetic oil on turbo engines due to extremely high temperature on certain components.
 
My co-worker's wife's 2011 Audi Q5 turbo was eating oil better than a quart per 5000 miles....up until Audi paid to rebuild the engine last spring at around 60k miles. Early on when it was still under factory warranty he noted, several times (on paper), with the dealer that it was using a lot of oil between changes which the same dealer always performed. With what, I don't know. "That's normal" was their reply every time.
 
My co-worker's wife's 2011 Audi Q5 turbo was eating oil better than a quart per 5000 miles....up until Audi paid to rebuild the engine last spring at around 60k miles. Early on when it was still under factory warranty he noted, several times (on paper), with the dealer that it was using a lot of oil between changes which the same dealer always performed. With what, I don't know. "That's normal" was their reply every time.
My previous 2001.5 VW Passat 2.8L V6 had been using 1 quart of oil per 800 ~ 1,000 miles since new. I’d been trying to have VWoA to fix the problem to no avail. Yeah, "that's normal" was their reply every time!
 
I just brought in my 19 CX-5 signature for its first oil change at the dealership (sitting in the waiting area now).

I was under the impression that they would be putting 5w-30 full synthetic in it, but when asked, I was told the 5w-30 they have is conventional (front desk called and asked someone to confirm).

From other threads I've read other people's experience say they got synthetic, and I would have assumed that they have both conventional and synthetic lying around for service sales uplift. Is that not the case at the dealerships?

If that's the case I'll probably be doing my own oil changes with full synthetic after this and only bring it in for major maintenance and skip the oil change.
I use Mobil 1 5-30 EP, mainly because the next step up from M1 is $10/5qt jug more, and the EP is a proven good formula, HT06, Dexos G2, SN+, etc. cert. It's an excellent oil for a turbo motor.
 
WRONG OIL USED FOR TURBO

I need to take in my 2019 GTR for it's 2nd oil change soon so I was checking the previous report to see what oil they used... it was Castrol GT 0W-20 for the turbo...? even though the manual AND oil cap literally say 5W-30.

Why would they use the wrong oil? Could this damage the turbo/engine? Will it affect the warranty?
 
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