Cranked up the boost last night to 13psi. Retuned my fuel maps. Pulls nice.
I did one pull at 11psi before i turned the boost up to 13psi, and my PDA dyno spat out 253hp at me. Sounds good to me.
At 13psi, after beating on it for awhile, I pulled 258hp, which is only 5hp more than I got at 11psi, BUT it was also after beating on it for a half hour, so I'm sure I'll get more power out of another pull when it's not heat soaked.
When I first started tuning it at 13psi and had correct A:F ratios (Running 11.5:1), I would hear a light crackling noise when I went WOT, regardless of RPM. If it was knock, it sounded different from any knock I've ever heard. But just for grins, I retarded some timing. It seemed to eliminate the sound...but I still hear it on occasion at WOT.
After talking to a few people, they said that a crackling sound is defintely a knock sound, so I guess I have to pull more timing since I still get it on occasion.
For you MPI tuner guys out there, I'm using boost retard, and at my max boost cell on the software, I have a "-10" in there. The problem is that no one really knows what a "-10" means, since it's ambiguous units. In a perfect world, a "-10" in that cell would mean you pulled 10 degrees of timing, but that's not how the MPI Tuner works. A "-10" could me 3 degrees of timing retard, or 12 degrees. No one knows for sure. This would be a HUGE help to know.
More to come later.
I did one pull at 11psi before i turned the boost up to 13psi, and my PDA dyno spat out 253hp at me. Sounds good to me.
At 13psi, after beating on it for awhile, I pulled 258hp, which is only 5hp more than I got at 11psi, BUT it was also after beating on it for a half hour, so I'm sure I'll get more power out of another pull when it's not heat soaked.
When I first started tuning it at 13psi and had correct A:F ratios (Running 11.5:1), I would hear a light crackling noise when I went WOT, regardless of RPM. If it was knock, it sounded different from any knock I've ever heard. But just for grins, I retarded some timing. It seemed to eliminate the sound...but I still hear it on occasion at WOT.
After talking to a few people, they said that a crackling sound is defintely a knock sound, so I guess I have to pull more timing since I still get it on occasion.
For you MPI tuner guys out there, I'm using boost retard, and at my max boost cell on the software, I have a "-10" in there. The problem is that no one really knows what a "-10" means, since it's ambiguous units. In a perfect world, a "-10" in that cell would mean you pulled 10 degrees of timing, but that's not how the MPI Tuner works. A "-10" could me 3 degrees of timing retard, or 12 degrees. No one knows for sure. This would be a HUGE help to know.
More to come later.