13psi MP3

Kooldino

MOTM Winner Jan '09
Authorized Vendor
Contributor
:
MP3
Cranked up the boost last night to 13psi. Retuned my fuel maps. Pulls nice.

I did one pull at 11psi before i turned the boost up to 13psi, and my PDA dyno spat out 253hp at me. Sounds good to me.

At 13psi, after beating on it for awhile, I pulled 258hp, which is only 5hp more than I got at 11psi, BUT it was also after beating on it for a half hour, so I'm sure I'll get more power out of another pull when it's not heat soaked.

When I first started tuning it at 13psi and had correct A:F ratios (Running 11.5:1), I would hear a light crackling noise when I went WOT, regardless of RPM. If it was knock, it sounded different from any knock I've ever heard. But just for grins, I retarded some timing. It seemed to eliminate the sound...but I still hear it on occasion at WOT.

After talking to a few people, they said that a crackling sound is defintely a knock sound, so I guess I have to pull more timing since I still get it on occasion.

For you MPI tuner guys out there, I'm using boost retard, and at my max boost cell on the software, I have a "-10" in there. The problem is that no one really knows what a "-10" means, since it's ambiguous units. In a perfect world, a "-10" in that cell would mean you pulled 10 degrees of timing, but that's not how the MPI Tuner works. A "-10" could me 3 degrees of timing retard, or 12 degrees. No one knows for sure. This would be a HUGE help to know.

More to come later.
 
Dino,

Did you ask MPNick what it means? Its his tuner unit, and software, he SHOULD be able to explain that.

Sorry bro, but if he cant explain it.....well you get what Im meaning. :D
 
supa saiyan pr5 - Check my sig.

boostisgood - He hasn't figured it out yet...but I really hope he does soon!

UPDATE: Tuned some more for lunch and got knock a few more times...put it back to "-13" or so on the timing retard, and it SEEMS good...for now.
 
MP3intheSTL said:
Hey Kooldino, Great numbers! Good work!
Question: How accurate is a PDA dyno?
Well, I don't know for sure, BUT before I got it, when I ran 8psi, I always figured I had around 220hp. The PDA dyno told me 221.

Recently I dynoed SpicyMichigas's (sp?) car which had just put down around 119whp on a chassis dyno...and it measured somewhere between 150 and 155 on my PDA dyno. Sounds about right to me. A stock MP3 with 140hp @ the crank dynos a 111 or so at the wheels. So Spicy's car dynoed another 8 or so at the wheels, which is good for around 11 or so at the crank...which would result in a 151. So the PDA dyno of 150-155hp on his car seemed about right.

So in short, if I had to guess, I'd say it was within 5% of the true number.
 
I was wondering if the Stock ECU can relearn Timing changes as well as fuel changes and adjust without you knowing.


13psi is nice though.. i had mine up to 13psi when i was spiking b/c of my leak :(



I also think i might have some issues with fuel distribution with the xtra injectors. My mani is off right now, and my 2 middle cylinders the valves are white where the first and last are black.:( Also my compressions is 10 psi less on the 2nd pistons over from the passeng side. Im gonna take pics and make a thread this weekend. Im scared that my WBo2 readings are getting thrown off by a really rich cylinder and a lean one. Might want to take a look at your plugs or even the valves if you have your mani off.
 
PaulMP3 said:
I was wondering if the Stock ECU can relearn Timing changes as well as fuel changes and adjust without you knowing.
Ugh, please don't say that.

You may be right though. Could happen.

*rigs a switch to reset his ECU daily*

13psi is nice though.. i had mine up to 13psi when i was spiking b/c of my leak :(
Doh!

I also think i might have some issues with fuel distribution with the xtra injectors. My mani is off right now, and my 2 middle cylinders the valves are white where the first and last are black.:( Also my compressions is 10 psi less on the 2nd pistons over from the passeng side. Im gonna take pics and make a thread this weekend. Im scared that my WBo2 readings are getting thrown off by a really rich cylinder and a lean one. Might want to take a look at your plugs or even the valves if you have your mani off.
Werd, thanks man.
 
holy nards those are nice numbers. I dare go past 8 and that's with racing fuel lol. I need the J&S and a fuel pump to run safely at 8... But not in the AZ summer- I stay at 6 for now (hand) .

I may go the mpi tuner route once all you beta testers get the maps and settings all figure out hehe.
 
Kooldino said:
......snip.....For you MPI tuner guys out there, I'm using boost retard, and at my max boost cell on the software, I have a "-10" in there. The problem is that no one really knows what a "-10" means, since it's ambiguous units. In a perfect world, a "-10" in that cell would mean you pulled 10 degrees of timing, but that's not how the MPI Tuner works. A "-10" could me 3 degrees of timing retard, or 12 degrees. No one knows for sure. This would be a HUGE help to know.

More to come later.
I'm not running the boost control, so what/where is this "max boost cell" at? What is your ignition advance/retard set to in the global settings? How much timing are you retarding, the -13? Nick said that if you wanted to retard degree by degree, then your ignition/advance limits would have to be like 45/-45 or so to get it close to being degree by degree. At about -4 to -6 you are retarding maybe 2-3 degrees, but I could be remebering that wrong.
 
imagine the power and consistency you'd get running the aem system...also look into the phenolic intake manifold gaskets from outlawengineering.com to reduce the heatsoak (i will probably install one later this year along with a p&p of the head)
 
PaulMP3 said:
I also think i might have some issues with fuel distribution with the xtra injectors. My mani is off right now, and my 2 middle cylinders the valves are white where the first and last are black.:( Also my compressions is 10 psi less on the 2nd pistons over from the passeng side. Im gonna take pics and make a thread this weekend. Im scared that my WBo2 readings are getting thrown off by a really rich cylinder and a lean one. Might want to take a look at your plugs or even the valves if you have your mani off.
So you were runnin lean in one cylinder..wow..maybe the fuel was pooling??

Chas
 
Bigg Tim said:
I'm not running the boost control, so what/where is this "max boost cell" at? What is your ignition advance/retard set to in the global settings? How much timing are you retarding, the -13? Nick said that if you wanted to retard degree by degree, then your ignition/advance limits would have to be like 45/-45 or so to get it close to being degree by degree. At about -4 to -6 you are retarding maybe 2-3 degrees, but I could be remebering that wrong.
-13 sound like allot of pulled timing..i am at 6psi..only only pulled -6 uptop!

Chas
(confused)
 
acidbbg said:
-13 sound like allot of pulled timing..i am at 6psi..only only pulled -6 uptop!

Chas
(confused)
Are you sure you need -6 up top? You might want more in the midracnge, but then again, you have the P5 ecu. But I would still think you wouldn't need that much up top.
 
Bigg Tim said:
Are you sure you need -6 up top? You might want more in the midracnge, but then again, you have the P5 ecu. But I would still think you wouldn't need that much up top.
yeah..that's what i figured..but then again..i dont' have a wideband..to tune her closer to reasonable numbers..savin for new clutch!

Chas(thumb)
 
smp3000 said:
holy nards those are nice numbers. I dare go past 8 and that's with racing fuel lol. I need the J&S and a fuel pump to run safely at 8... But not in the AZ summer- I stay at 6 for now (hand) .

I may go the mpi tuner route once all you beta testers get the maps and settings all figure out hehe.
Beta testers? The thing has been around for almost a year, man.
 
Back