Search results

My injectors were cleaned earlier this year. Alternator is always putting out between 13.8-14.3 volts. I would hazard a guess that my idle air control valve was stuck. Probably needs a good cleaning.

My car began working again after I had it out on the freeway. Perhaps a blockage somewhere, I'm not sure, but my idle is back. Hopefully it's not just an intermittent problem *fingers crossed*.

My intake hose is in good condition. I cleaned the EGR, but no change :(. Looks like it's time to surrender to the dealer to diagnosis...

Actually come to think of it. I had been getting the P0660 code intermittently before this problem occurred. This may be related. To add to the symptoms, I warmed the car up to operating temperature and the car no longer dies, but idles extremely low at about 100rpm.

I was thinking it may be my MAF, but there are no check engines codes coming up, so it's probably not sensor related. PCV valve seems ok (rattles). There were no indications of a problem before it suddenly started dieing. The engine runs smoothly as long as I keep the RPMs above 1000...

My Protege5 has suddenly started dieing as soon as I start it. The weird things is that it will run as long as I press the gas pedal, but dies immediately once I stop. Any ideas?

Funny the 'Similiar Threads' section was able to come up with my answer. Apparently it is called a VTCS delay valve. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123750754-N00bie-VTCS-delay-valve-question http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?123724789-VTCS-Check-valve-problem

My protege5 was throwing the P1590 VTCS low input code. I checked the input line that goes into the VTCS solenoid and noticed a connector of some sort in the middle of the line. The connector is plastic -- black on top and green on the bottom. I took the part out and put the two connecting...

Yes, but the factory installed wheel bearings wear prematurely due to a seal problem. The part has now been redesigned by Mazda and should last much longer.

I jacked my car up and wiggled the front driver side wheel (back and forth parallel to the axle). There was noticable play when I did this, so it's definitely the wheel bearings making the noise. Reading other posts, failed wheel bearings seem to be a common problem with the P5.

Yeah, it's likely the wheel bearing. The noise persists in neutral and with the engine off. It's weird that the end links influence the wheel bearing enough to cause it make noise (uhm).

Thanks for the reference, but I was looking more for the cause of the whirring noise rather than reducing the cabin noise. It seems bizarre that the noise will go away if I remove a sway bar link. The noise seems to be emanating from the front driver's side wheel only. Does anyone have any...

I was wondering if anyone has experienced similar whirring road noise with their P5. The noise seems to change pitch with wheel speed and gets louder as the wheel speed increases. I first noticed the noise when I purchased the car a year ago, but then one of my front sway bar end links went...