Search results

Sounds like you have a transmission with an open differential. The Toe issue is also a problem. You'll be able to burn the tires easier but the loose steering effect comes into play.

Check your coolant level

It is best to leave the engine and trans together while removing. after its out you can switch trans if you want or whatever. It is really a 4 to 5 hour job if you are experienced. I would just remove the slave cylinder by just unbolting it and let it hang there. Unbolt the exhaust down...

This is possibly the easiest swaps to do. All you have to do is unplug everything, remove the axles, pull the engine and transmission together and put them back into the other car. Not the most descriptive but if you've ever pulled an engine its pretty straight forward.

It is the same thread as the suspension bolts that hold the struts. Not sure what the thread is but it is metric.

Just adjust it until the rotor stops and then go in the car and pull the Ebrake all the way up and let it back down. It should not touch the rotors after.

Probably the Limited slip differential on its way out.

Fuel lines backwards maybe?

Its probably your rear rotors. I had bad rear rotors and the steering wheel shook bad before I changed them out. Now I have no wobble with new rear rotors on.

https://www.carid.com/2016-mazda-cx-5-wire-harnesses/

You should order a aftermarket wiring harness kit. It has all of the wires labeled for what they do. Just match it up to the wire that shows Auxiliary and tap into that for power. I'd just get a relay and use the Auxiliary wire as the switch, should be blue, like hooking up an amplifier...

The couplings fall off of what? Also, post a picture of the setup.

This depends on your setup. If you have a stock setup with all plastic pipes you can't put it before the Maf because its on the intake. If your car has hard piping then you want to move the Maf to the charged side of the piping going to the throttlebody and make sure to have the blow off valve...

Car-parts.com

You can use the 93-97 2.0 FSDE Probe Manual transmission also, probably the 626 2.0 FSDE Manual Transmission also. I have a 96 probe tranny in my brothers car right now.

Is there any oil on the plugs? When you checked the plugs did you actually remove them or just remove the coils and boots? Do you have any pictures of the engine that we could look at? pictures of the intake, valve cover, and at the throttlebody? Is the maf plugged back in?

I've bent valves but not from the belt snapping but from the timing belt spring rubber getting into the timing belt and throwing off the timing. After I re-timed it you could hear a faint tapping sound. The more I drove it the worse it got.

I'd start out small and work my way up. Start with the stock msp setup and go from there. Just know that if you going to want to go further than that setup you will have to pay to play(build your motor).

Sorry, I have found one.

Does the t25 that comes stock on the msp have a built in restrictor in the turbo or does the stock line have the restrictor in it. I bought the fitting that is unrestricted based off of an old thread this I searched, and the turbo's fitting just doesnt look like it's internally restricted...