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That kit doesn't include the flange to intercooler o-ring. Drop me an email or PM with your address and I'll send you one in the mail.

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=&product=FMDVMAZ3S does not "ping", the original valve may or may not "ping" depending on a few variables. The new valve will also allow for a lighter spring to be used at any given boost pressure due to the changes we made from the...

This is correct. If you perform that test and it fails then you know its bad BUT if it passes there is a chance it might still be bad.

Any fully synthetic non lithium based bearing grease will work. We use a Mobile product.

But here it is: http://www.forgemotorsport.com/media/valve_service(1).pdf

That test won't necessarily tell you anything useful. It will tell you if the diaphragm has failed but that isn't the only cause for a "leaky" valve.

Nice. Would you happen to have a scan of the dyno plot?

Your valve is a pre-final prototype I think. And is that a Battlestar Galactica reference?

Not really any similarity to the HKS. They operate in entirely different ways. Less than 5 people with the GEN2 valves right now and they are all (finalized) prototypes. We haven't gotten the first run of valves back from the polishers and the anodizers.

Start the car and let it idle, then go look at the valve, you should see the main aluminum piston lifted, pinch the vacuum line (or remove it and quickly cap it with your finger). The piston should drop back down and lift again when you reinstall the vac line.

You had to make the rod as short as possible? When you installed the turnbuckle onto the flapper post did it slip right on or did you have to pull the rod out a bit to get it to slip over?

r.i.p.o.d.b.

You can't use the FMDVMAZ3 as a vent to atmosphere valve. It is a single piston unit and will be open pretty much whenever the manifold is in vacuum and this will cause a huge leak. We make a separate vent to atmosphere valve the FMDVMAZ301 that has a secondary piston that stays closed to...

Or send it to my attention and I will rebuild it: Forge Motorsport 6536 Pinecastle Blvd Suite C Orlando fl 32809

Just PM me your address.

I missed that. Hmmm. When you did the pen-test did you just do it once or repeatedly? I always do it 10 times or so and rebuild the valve if it fails once. If there was a marked change 3 days in then something must have failed. It could be the valve or a vacuum leak. If it is a vacuum leak it...

That is what it should do. The spring will push the piston down until the vacuum in the valve and the spring tension equalize (about 90% in this case), when you remove your finger the upper chamber of the valve equalizes with atmospheric pressure and the piston snaps shut from spring tension...

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/media/valve_service(1).pdf Oops. Added link.

If the car seems slower after changing a spring my guess is that the top o-ring has fallen out of its receiver groove.

I've responded to all PMs. PS. I'm a dude :)