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It's really not that bad. Just SO. MANY. PIECES. You're going to need a couple special tools to completely disassemble and reassemble it. Disassembly is obviously easier but you're going to need a way to pull bearings and clutch hubs off the main and counter shafts. I use a two-jaw puller and...

Ever thought about upgrading to a multi-tooth trigger wheel and variable reluctor or Hall Effect sensor like the ones Full Function Engineering offer? I have no experience running a stock FC-style crank angle sensor on my current setup but all the tuners I know seem to rave about FFE's stuff. I...

So is the issue you don't know what the marks on your pulley are: 0/-10 or -5/-15? I'm pretty sure 0/-10 was the stock target for the older 13Bs. I'm not sure where the -5/-15 would have come from. One solution would be to pick up one of Racing Beats main pulleys to check since they're marked...

Most of my start up adjustments are for fuel. I've got some pretty significant enrichment going on when coolant temperature is below 100F. Haltech also has a "post start enrichment" function I'm using. It's a 3D enrichment map that's dependent on coolant temperature and engine running time. Even...

I thought you wanted the alternator "sense" wire connected to a constant 12V source as far away from the battery as possible. That way it senses the greatest voltage drop and can better regulate it. I have mine connected to the headlight circuit because it was the easiest, closest circuit that...

That's an interesting setup. Is that how Fuelab recommends the install? In mine the line from the pump (with inline filter) runs to the fuel rail, then I have a line from the fuel rail to the FPR, and then the bottom port of the FPR goes back to the fuel tank. Your setup obviously works but I've...

That reminds me; I really need to check my duty cycles at higher engine speeds/loads. What kind of fuel pressure regulator are you using? I assume it's a 1:1 rising rate aftermarket unit. If so, just increase the fuel pressure without the vacuum line to 45 psi and then connect the line. You're...

That fuel pressure seems low to me. Stock FC injectors are 460 cc/min and the fuel pressure regulator uses a vacuum reference with a base pressure of 34-40 psi. I don't know the rate of the regulated pressure relative to its source though. I'd think you're making more power than a stock FC so...

Okay, that's pretty cool. What I have isn't too far off that. I'm targeting a little richer at idle and the low-to-mid range. I can live with that since my engine seems to like runner richer in general. Any above 13.5 or so below 2000 RPM is unstable. Ideally I'll get within +/- 0.1 of my...

I'm running into a couple issues: 1. It almost seems like every time I start the car it wants to run a little differently. I've been trying to be better at doing my tuning around the same time of day in the same kind of weather to avoid atmospheric effects. I essentially started over yesterday...

Ugh, the more I try to tune this thing the more I realize I have no idea what I'm doing...

I've done the unthinkable. I've actually ADDED emissions equipment back in the car. I now have a working PCV system! I'm using the PCV valve and general system structure from a FD RX7. The goal was to reduce the amount of condensation I was getting in the crank case with just a vented catch can...

9 year bump?!

I've thought about that. The examples I've been using have been peripherally-ported engines, which only have one intake port per rotor, so my case is slightly different. Unless you have variable-length runners or staged ports there will always be a trade off between low and top end power. It's...

I'm not convinced staged injectors are the result of the quest for more power. Mazda uses smaller injectors overall. Probably for a smooth and stable idle and acceptable fuel economy and emissions. The GSL-SE ran two 680 cc/min injectors. The N/A FC's ran four 460 cc/min injectors. What I could...

I do have a pair of ID725s that came with the FFE primary fuel rail kit. I've been trying to avoid staging, if possible. It's added complexity and I don't think I need it unless I run much smaller injectors all around. The two ID1000s I have right now are capable of the low duty cycles needed...

Very conservative. At WOT it's in the 20's. I figure I've got at least 10-15 degrees of advance to play with. This car should be making 190-200 whp. I just need to find dyno time to work on the timing. It backfires ALL. THE. TIME. I took the car to the Tail of the Dragon this past weekend...

169 hp at 6800 RPM and 135 ft-lb at 6300 RPM. Not bad for what is essentially still a break-in tune with conservative timing.

I remember seeing that a while back. It jives pretty closely with the recommendations the Mazda FSM gives regarding minimum ambient temperatures: 35% glycol by volume is good to around 0 degrees Fahrenheit. I'm running 33% gycol because it's convenient to mix 1 gal glycol with 2 gal distilled...

I was just reading the technical information from Redline and they mention it lubricates water pump seals so perhaps the Water Wetter acts in lieu of glycol in that sense.