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I found this thread: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/new-member-area-5/does-mazda-3-brake-booster-have-adjustment-connecting-rod-44154/ Based on surface inspection of the booster and the pin, it seems that it would be similar to the 323 in the given diagram there. Any idea how to access the...

Hello all, I've currently narrowed a problem with my 2008 Mazda3's brake pedal feel down to the brake booster pin, and need to figure out how to adjust the length of the pin. Based on videos I've watched, many other brake booster pins seem to have a nut on them that allows you to adjust the...

An update... After spending a lot of time trying to track down the correct ABS module for the car (and then having a junkyard ship me the wrong one), I've finally replaced the ABS module and bled the entire system again. This has fixed only one of the two issues I had: I am now able to...

That's actually the guide I followed when bleeding the brakes originally...but because it didn't mention anything about pushing the brake pedal to the floor...I ended up doing so. It's one of the better guides out there, but it did miss some critical details. Anyway...I'll update once I...

This might've caused it, yea. Back when I removed the flex hoses they were badly inflamed and quite worn/corroded, so it's possible they caused this. That being said, prior to doing any brake work the brakes felt quite good (and better than other cars I've driven thus far). This was intended...

Another update: bench-bled the new MC and it seemed to function properly and much better than the old MC (piston built pressure during bench bleeding, no bubbles). I went ahead and installed the new MC into the car, connected the brake lines and clutch line to it, and proceeded to bleed the...

Currently benchtesting the MC, and it appears that the primary port has a continuous, and steady stream of air bubbles in it that simply cannot be flushed out by bench bleeding. The secondary port, however, is free of bubbles and has excellent, pure fluid flow. Would this mean that the primary...

Update #2: I ordered a pair of metal plugs (M12x1.0) for the master cylinder so that way I could do a quick test without having to remove it from the car just yet. Removing the fluid lines from the MC and inserting in the plugs, I decided to go about testing the brake pedal feel in two ways...

Unfortunately this is what we did initially, as some tutorial posts/videos didn't make any mention of the risk. We've since been using a wooden block and continuing to use the 2-person method, and are now about to investigate the master cylinder.

Update: After removing all 3 ABS fuses from the fuse box (the 10A, 20A, & 30A) last night and reconnecting the battery, I decided to turn the ignition to "on" under battery power (without cranking the engine). Cracking open the bleeder valve for the troublesome wheel (driver's side rear) and...

Hi all, hoping to gain some insight here as I'm at my wits' end with what should be a rather simple brake bleed job for my '08 Mazda3 hatch. I've tried a variety of methods (among other things that I'll mention) but none seem to be providing any results. The Problem: The driver's rear wheel...

I have a 2008 Mazda3 Sport, and am currently in the process of bleeding the brakes according to this guide posted by flatlander937. I've followed the guide to a tee, with the sole exception of bleeding the rear-left/front-right circuit first, and then beginning with the rear-right as I bleed...

Good writeup, been following your method so far - though I started the bleeding process with the opposite circuit (left rear, right front, right rear, left front). Finished bleeding the first circuit (left rear/right front) without any hitches. Began working on the right rear, and there seems...