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Exact same as OP described. Fixed by replacing the stabilizer links. Clunk remained and then replaced the bushings too. Went away. An auto body shop told me - always when changing links change the bushings too. Paid labor twice, lesson learned.

1 thing: thank you all! Really. For I was planning to replace my struts thinking its bad. Now I just saved myself quite a big chunk of $$. I just feel perhaps this exercise should be done by all who change the links. Perhaps not applicable to most but just in case.... I say this since not only...

Please see: Stabilizer links with OEM replaced - but weird now when driving

No - but son uses a software called Grammer called GrammerCheck - which I also use. Pretty good and re-formats too

Oh. All I did was loosen at the top where the links connect and then tighten it back to what somewhere here (in this site) was said : 36 to 40 ft. lb torque. Then repeat at the lower point same thing. Left and right. All the while while the car was in an alignment ramp, all wheels. As was right...

I completed this finally. It was a real b**** to have the car on a ramp and go underneath and do it. Finally was able to. Net result: Noticeable improvement in 2 areas: 1. Steering wheel turning : smoother by a lot. 2. Noticeable feel in driving down the same roads -> bumps, etc. are still...

That is only true if the bar is at its neutral rotational position at ride height. That condition I think here is being assumed, not guaranteed. The sway bar is: Not keyed Not splined Not indexed to the chassis Its neutral position is defined by installation, not design. Even with rubber...

@N7turbo A sway bar system has three variables, not one: Link length (fixed) Control arm position (changes with ride height) Sway bar rotational position in the chassis (not indexed) Even with a fixed-length link: If you connect both ends while the suspension is drooped You define the sway...

Recently got the front axle links replaced consequent to a diagnosed clunking sound. Sound is now gone. 3 weeks driving however distinctly feel the car got worse. Every bump, potholes - everything I am feeling now, while driving. Even the car is rolling more I think. To eliminate few things -...

Very good point and considering you have real experience post change, probably first I'll do the 3 things mechanic recommended I do. He's nice that way. Tells me "don't bother me, unless there's a real issue, save your $" type.

Used to +10 yrs ago. Now - no more.My M+S (Snow peak rated tires) handle North east snow perfectly fine. I think it was last or maybe earlier I posted here even how they managed with +6 inches snow effortlessly. Last year I had an emergency and had to drive at +70 mph thru snow baked roads (not...

Gotcha. However - the issue I have as described is with steering being more stiff than usual, nose of car bobbing a bit (I think). Probably struts may be fine but was thinking the bearings, mounts and bumper may be a problem.

That's what I am also thinking. Although its +10 yrs, (almost) 74k miles seems very low.

Recently swapped front suspension links. Clunking sound - gone. However, noticed steering wheel feeling a little stiff on turning, front of car seems to (am I dreaming) bobbing up/down in bumps. CX5 GT 2016 2.5L at 74k miles [US Ed]. When replacing stabilizer links somewhere I read struts need...

Thanks a ton man. I did the same. The jump in CCA makes it worth it. Esp. I bought thru Costco, price wise - the same!

I haven't done Optima but did Interstate (Costco). It fit perfectly. No cutting, etc. Even terminals fit. My issue is: The new high-capacity AGM battery using the charging profile intended for the older, smaller battery, which can lead to premature failure? OR: for AGM batteries its not really...

@Redtiger I am looking for a dashcam which offers Starvis 2 sensors both front and back. Both are 4K and can operate at minimum 30 fps. If higher - great. Both cameras have IMX678 sensors or at least the front has 678. Do you have any? Also - is there any with IMX 585 sensor please? OR, IMX 664?

It's getting cold and my battery gave me issues. Costco is nearby and coincidentally the guy there said he happens to have the same car as me. i.e. CX5 GT 2016. He said why not put group 24F and stressed on "F". It easily fits in the cavity where the group 35 goes and maybe I might need to saw...

I strongly suggest you start the process. You have my full unequivocal support. Just 1 thing to remember: If its thrown out, the counter party remember can sue you back for trying to malign their brand. Just a thought.

After +10 yrs of NYC / NJ roads finally encountered clunking sounds, etc. and found my sway bar links driver side: gone. I believe the correct part # is KD35-34-170. Just wondering if I am correct and as I usually buy only from MED MAZDA should I buy 2 of them? Is there any after market which...