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I'd say that's a pretty good price. I've been shopping, and most clean 2nd gens are around 10k. Gen 2 did not have the VVT issues and is supposed to have some revisions to the pistons and rods.

Just changing the oil on time. It's actually getting sold this weekend, just picked up a Speed3 replacement project.

240k. Got a JDM engine at 165k due to oil burning. It's been the most reliable car I've ever owned, but the rockers are pretty much gone from rust. Usually these cars meet their demise from rust or drinking oil, not from general unreliability.

By all means, shop around. 200$ is pretty much going rate for most common cars. I agree, it's not worth DIYing. You'll spend close to the extra hundred bucks on urethane, tools, etc. And if you screw it up and break the windshield, sucks to be you.

The high side (compressor outlet) runs to the condenser. I managed to pinch that line somehow during my engine swap. Easy fix with a junkyard line. If it's visibly leaking, the system is likely empty. Replace the line and dryer, then have a shop vacuum and charge it. You'll have to add oil to...

Looking for a clean P5 shell in the midwest. Mine is rusting away badly, but the drivetrain is still decent. Hate the thought of buying a new car.

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123847126-DIY-Injector-Seal-Replacement&highlight=

There is a manifold in that area that bolts onto the cylinder head, with the upper hose and CTS sensors on it.

Just for future reference, any competent alignment shop should give you before/after printouts of what was adjusted. If they don't, walk away.

08 Grand Touring auto/2.3 5 door, 180k. All leather, Bose, etc. Paint is decent, one small rust spot beginning on the passenger side rear fender well. Trans is bad. Has a myriad of transmission codes and the fluid looks like engine oil. Engine seems to run fine, a couple 02 codes but nothing...

If I remember correctly these are the clips. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-25-Mazda-Door-Trim-Panel-Retainer-Nylon-Clips-G18K-51-SJ3-FREE-SHIPPING/323515776684?hash=item4b530afeac:g:gPEAAOSw8xNZlGpn:rk:2:pf:0 You will break some, best to have them on hand before you try to remove the skirts.

If anything there will be a slight tick on that valve, they seldom close all the way if there is a seat issue, that creates excess clearance and noise. The one time I've seen a broken valve in person, there was just a piece missing, like in the video below...

Valves have been known to fail from time to time. Not very often, but it happens. If you verify low compression, then you can often get in the cylinder with a borescope and confirm that the valve is busted.

The oil pan is pretty straight forward. Just drain the oil and remove the bolts. Clean all the junk off of the mating surfaces and spray them down with a solvent until they are dry and completely free of any oil residue. Same goes for the trans pan. An aftermarket gasket may be available, but a...

Not necessarily, leakage will be worse as things expand.

Air pocket or the head gasket is blown.

I did once, after a ton of rain a few years ago, the side of the road was flooded and flowing, 6-10" deep. As I was passing through the battery light lit up for a few seconds, went away, and that was the end of it. I've been a little more careful since. That was over 3 years and 50,000 miles...

The red brake light usually means that the fluid is low. The ABS light will come on automatically if the red light is lit and the parking brake is not engaged.

The wider the wheel, the less positive offset you need to clear the strut. Go too wide, and you'll have rubbing issues, especially if you're lowered. I have 17x7s with +35. The are flush in the rear, and just barely tucked in the front. With a 215/40 I had some rubbing in the rear, with a...

A bent valve usually won't close all the way, rotate the cam opposite of max lift and slip a feeler gauge in there, see if the lash is way out of spec.