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3rd has been grinding for some time, then recently started kicking out of gear after engagement, and friday night i was WOT on the freeway and it finally spun... 3rd gear does not exist. upon removal, what was founf to be the issue? no more teeth on the synchro ring/blocker ring? gear...

sunday i installed my HiBoost FMIC kit on my MSP. it was great, i left the vacuum source connected to the stock recirc. valve and as such never had any stalling issues (basically kept the HKS from working). today i bought a couple reducer couplings and moved the MAF into the compressor side...

newer eclipses are slow as sin. at 8 PSI i was burying my buddy's 2002 V6 eclipse.

i just purchased my FMIC kit and i am going to go with a blow-thru MAF setup. when doing a blow-thru MAF setup post-compressor on the MSPs, is it pretty much just a cut-and-bolt in affair? with my SVO, the VAM i had was 3.5" and my tubing was all 2.5" so i have to make a reducer-adaptor to...

maybe i should have said, used... :) the lesser the price the better.

title says it all. gimme whatchya got!

you definitely need to make sure that you are adjusted correctly for lash. they sell different buckets *sit on top of the valve & spring* so that you can correctly adjust the lash.

cold-start piston slap or you need an oil change. mine does it too after 2500ish miles.

do GS-Rs really give you guys trouble? i run neck-and-neck with 99+ GT mustangs...

if you want to try a fix for the boost spike, remove your turbo and port the flapper door hole for the wastegate in the exhaust housing. opening this up will allow the wastegate to expel exhaust gases faster and reduce the likelihood of boost spike.

the tubing (cooling tubes, not endtank outlets) is a bit small on the intercooler, but for $80 that thing looks like a HUGE improvement over stock. :) good score!

the exhaust, like all of greddy's exhaust components, looks great. i think the tip is queer as folk, but i prefer the low-key look personally. but since i have worked with greddy stuff for a while now, i gotta ask how the fitment was. did everything line up fairly close? i know i have had to...

ok, a JOLT isnt the car going lean because of a funky A/F curve. its the car recieving NO FUEL. the ECU pulls timing and cuts injector pulse. here's how it happnens: the car's ECU reads the airflow as a mass, not as boost. 10 PSI in colorado is not the same as 10 PSI in texas. so it reads off...

i wouldnt touch FRAM with a 10-foot pole. end of story. if you want damn good motor oil, check out AMSoil. it is badass, and made for our type of cars.

make sure you are checking after the car has been fired up and primed. the oil filter and its check valve will retain about half a quart or more. ALWAYS change the filter, guys. i would change the damn filter before i would change the oil, since the filter is what prevents the oil from getting...

considering i made 180.1 WHP on motor and 9.25 PSI, i hope a FMIC gets me closer to 200. i technically made 206/212 on 11 PSI, but i would start detonating after a couple runs so i backed it back down to a hair under 10. VERY NICE gains. :)

thats me. i post on DFWstangs as SLO SVO. :) RIP r00b. you will be missed. :(:(:(:(