Search results

It almost looks like some of the clips that hold that rear interior trim in place are not holding. I have no experience removing that part to check behind it but I'd say it needs to be removed and reset into it's proper orientation. That gap is absolutely not normal.

I don't suppose you have a pick and pull yard nearby? Given you know what it take to get to it now that could work. Although they are few and far between these days. Sadly, the only other option may be the dealership but perhaps you can find a discount dealer on-line.

I think your actuator may be stuck in the closed position. Here's a pic of mine with the hatch open and it shows the bottom of the 'U' is open. Perhaps you can manipulate yours to this position and try again. A large screwdriver below that latch, hold the handle open and try to pry it open may...

It's a lot of trim work to get the whole panel off and that may be needed to get the lock mechanism out. However, there is a small cover on the inside just behind the mechanism that you can pop out and perhaps that will give you more insight at to what the issue could be.

Did you check to be sure that nothing has fallen down into the latch area that could be blocking the mechanism from engaging? If that area is clean you may need to remove the hatch cover to get a better look at what is going on with the mechanism.

Those two look perfectly normal for the mileage. Gap is nice and consistent and no signs of any carbon or oil etc... accumulating on them. If there are misfires perhaps it's fuel related. Run a good injector cleaner and use a few tanks of top tier fuel and see how it goes.

At that mileage and price I'd skip the Mazda. Basically it has a Ford engine with a water pump design that will take out the engine if the water pump leaks. It's inside the engine and the leaks go directly into the sump. Coolant mixes with the oil and that's the end of the engine. Also, the if...

This is a perfect reminder of my water pump issue with my Audi. I had to pay the $1,100 to fix it at just over 60K miles and Audi of America refused any help. Not as bad as an engine or replacement of the head but painful none the less considering the mileage. However, it was an easy choice for...

They will adjust to the point of locking up so be careful. It's odd that you cannot just move the rotors without the wheel. They are way out of adjustment if you can spin the wheel freely. As suggested above have a look at engaging the parking brake and ensure all the parts move as appropriate...

Adjust them out to contact the parking brake drum when you feel/hear a slight drag between the shoes and the drum. Once you get to that point you can either leave them at that setting or back off about 2 to 3 clicks.

Given that it's such a unique part I suspect there will be no alternative solutions. There are 'add-on' visors clip to the existing visor and that may be the only option available.

Likely power is getting to the switch since the seat moves in other directions. Most likely narrows it down to the switch or motor. If you can, remove the connector at the forward/back motor and test for power at the connector when activating the switch. A test light should be sufficient for...

I have the original Bose setup and did a carplay retrofit from Crutchfield. Maybe you should do that simple part first and see how it's all working and then figure out what else you need to do based on the outcome. In my experience the more unknown variables you introduce at one time makes...

It could have a broken or missing tooth on the gears that will let it work with no resistance. You could also note the position of the door and move that manually through it's range and see if it travels freely. Based on what I have seen over the years my money is on the actuator needing...

Usually you can reach the actuators by dropping the glove box or removing the knee bolster on the drivers side. If you can isolate which side it's coming from that may help you figure out what to remove to gain access.

I am pretty sure you need to get behind that and see what clips on the retainer have broken. If you look in that hole there are tabs that hold that sensor in place and at least one is broken.

There is a seal under the antenna. Given it was all fine til that incident I think you have your answer.

Skip the dealership and go straight to Mazda Financial - call then write that you want it cancelled and refunded.

Over that 190K have you serviced the PTU? Just checking as that's a long time to go on that unit. I have also heard of a connector at the rear diff that can get corroded and cause issues. Not a mechanical issue but electrical at the rear diff. It was a while back when i read about that but if...