Search results

Hello, Just want to close this by saying that I finally got this thing fixed. Just before the Covid 19 stuff and shut down, my best friend managed to get a deal on getting it fixed with his mechanic and it's now back on the road and running great, but in the process some other items needed...

With your latest suggestion, you are NOT helping! LOL. Well, let me see what I can do with the air hammer, and if it fails, then yank out the joint shaft and then go from there, maybe replace it if one can be found in a reasonable amount of time. I wonder if it WAS replaced at one point, but...

[SIZE=4]Fortunately, no rust that I see, I live in Western Washington so rust is generally not an issue for us and my green cup still looks quite good for an old part. The closeup of the CV joint cup at the jack shaft looks to be about where mine is now. When I began, that recessed ridge that...

Thanks for the advice on getting it back on, that will indeed be helpful. Yes, the knuckle itself was completely free of all connections and still, could not get the back CV joint cup to move much. I do have molly grease to help install the new axle, BTW. I did get the axle separated by...

Thanks. I knew that intuitively that just to get it past the clips, but no amount of banging did the job. As I said in my initial post, a video showed where a bearing left too long before replacing caused the axle to seize in the hub. And due to the small amount of room between the axle shaft...

Hello, I'm now in the middle of removing the CV axle on the passenger side from the jack shaft spline since removing it all the way back at the transmission is one impossible (no room and can't reach) but also, even the Mazda P5 manual says to drain the transmission (true?) before popping the...

Right above, THIS, this could be the root of your ailments and this is because your car has computers to manage the engine (Engine Control Unit), body (body control unit) and so on and they utilize sensors and all of them need at minimum, 12V to run and then generate a 5V reference signal to...

Good news, Outside of needing to burp the cooling system, the car is back to its old self again. It all was because of doing a grins and giggles try to see if any changes would commence by reinstalling the old MAF sensor and badda bing! STFT came back, MAF circuit low A code went away (had to...

Once I get it to about 1200rpm and let it idle, the transition is smooth down to hot idle so that's fine, it's the initial start up, once it's been sitting and here, I just let it idle for about a couple of minutes or so before rolling and gradually, it'll run fine and like normal as the car is...

Pcb, Mostly, the dying is first few minutes of driving, once started up, after that it more or less drives like normal, so far and I think it just needs time to relearn so the jury is still out, at this point and time. I have not gotten a cat code, nor does the car feel sluggish at all now...

As for the timing, I had hoped it would not be that as I had not been looking forward to tearing into that but you are likely right in the timing. Thus the comment I made about double checking the timing when I put things back together after the water pump replacement. That whole reinstall went...

Pb4tugotobed, sorry, I don't buy that excuse. It's a discourtesy to skip over entries in a thread and then ask what's already been covered and say you don't have time. Obviously, you are here, so you are making time to read, right? Anyway, back to the car, spent Friday and yesterday...

Problem is, and I say so in the post, it's dripping from the belt end of the motor, and the drops are not small either. The cap, radiator and pump were all replaced by AAMCO 2 years ago.

Per the pump, Oh I know all about the thermostat, in late summer of 2012, had the damn thing stuck shut and spewing coolant out of every orifice it could find, fortunately, I did the smart thing, turned on the heat and got it to Precision tune in University place and they checked it out...

Thanks, good to know, being that the ECM is holding the fuel trims until it has had a chance to learn is probably what it is. HOWEVER, I just discovered the water pump just quit or so it looks like anyway. I have a hose coming for a leaky hose that goes to the throttle body as it was dripping...

OK, quick update. After getting an impact driver, got it at Advanced Auto for $22.99 and it eventually did the trick several thwacks with the hammer and twisting ultimately broke it loose but it's too far gone to reuse. Fortunately, the gasket remains intact so reused just cleaned things up as...

Went out this morning to see if unplugging the upstream O2 sensor would change things, no, nothing as it's stuck in open loop fault. However, the idle is a tad rough with mild misfires even around 1000rpms or so but the same codes, P0102 and P0300. ST and LT fuel trims are still reading 0.0...

I think so too, as it drops to about 600 rpm and lower and the idle does get lumpy then, but remains mostly fine down to that low and it can barely keep idle when the tranny is in gear if it doesn't conk out, and this conking out is also when not in gear, more so when not warmed up but still...

It could very well be the IAC, and I did have the P0507, idle higher than expected once. It's not tripped now, just the P0300 and the P0102 codes at the moment. Does the fuel trims not fluctuating have anything to do with the IAC? If not then it's still the O2 sensors. I would not be too...

You aren't going to believe this, no the car still idles like s***. I'm beginning to think the Sea Foam messed with my o2 sensors, the sensor 1 most likely (the one in the exhaust manifold) and see what happens. All this driving has me doing the brake/gas foot dance and at times the...