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Hey, at least its not like Ford with their Volume Knob looking shifter.

Oh, I'm well aware, with my 2017 it was able to be depressed once I put it in service mode. A friend of mine broke a C Clamp trying to depress the caliper on his Honda before he found out he needed the special tool.

The Double DIN hole is still there, its just covered up. It would take a LOT of fabrication to put in a Double DIN stereo. My Mazda Service Tech and I are convinced that for an effort to reduce costs on the 2nd Gen CX-5, they just used the same framing as the 1st Gen with new outer panels.

I find it laughable that they tell you to use a special tool to turn the caliper back. As long as its in service mode, you can treat it just like any other caliper.

https://youtu.be/5pkkAnsCuVY Here's a video for the Gen 1 bumper, the procedure is fairly similar.

There are 4 smaller rivets that need to be removed, after that it should come right off. I added arrows to point out the exact locations.

The rivets and screws I outlined in the picture all need to be removed, you will also have to remove all the pop rivets on the splash guard under the car, about half on each wheel well, and two screws holding it in place under the fender lining. Hopefully that helps, a lot of it was just hunt...

https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44018&goto=newpost This guy did it on his Mazda 3, he didn't mention having any problems.

I made that mistake the first time, the box actually plugs into the unit under the glove box.

From what I read on another forum the alternator Power Bastards sells fits and works well. https://www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=20288-250-HD3-6

From what I remember on my '17 there was a clip somewhere in the middle that you just apply a little force to and it pops apart.

You had to order a separate Battery height spacer? My Optima Red Top came with one when I bought it from O'Reilly.

This time around I played it safe and went with a RCA "Gain Knob" which is, in my opinion, a much better option.

No judgement, I used to do the same. Although, I'm pretty sure that's what killed my last two amps.

I guess you ignored the "Do not mount amplifier to the subwoofer box" sticker.

InstallGear 1/0 Gauge AWG Tinned Pure Copper Lugs Ring Terminals Connectors with Heat Shrink - 10-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WKXN5P/ I would recommend a hydraulic crimper or a hammer crimper, they were a royal pain to crimp.

well, the majority of it is hidden, I honestly ran everything where the stock wires were. The Alternator wire goes to a fuse then under the air box to the battery, Ground wires are in the exact same place as stock. I put about 600 bucks into my sound system this time around between as far as...

I know people that swear by them and others that call them a gimmick. I use one because a fellow car audio enthusiast of mine has been using his for years and he's my go to guy for anything related to the subject.

@floridaplur will do, I had some dimming on my interior lights before but its not really noticeable anymore ever since I did The Big 3 upgrade.

@floridaplur I just upgraded my setup on my 17' Sport. I did The Big 3, ran new power and ground, and installed KnuKoncepts Ultimate Battery Terminals. I went ahead and just did everything 0/1 AWG wire. I haven't noticed much of a strain yet, I do have a 4 Farad Capacitor on my system already...