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Just replace them. You can get new LCAs for ~100USD each and its 4 bolts (3 on the arm itself and 1 for the ball joint pin) to remove them once you take the wheel off. You'll need an extension for one of the bolts.. an impact will help

That's why I tell people a RSB on a stock height car is a waste. There is still too much suspension travel. A lowering set even the H&R (which work well with stock dampers) work fine. The body roll in that video is laughable. With the right set up you can pretty much eliminate the chance of...

You're gonna want (but not need) an impact wrench, even the $99 from Amazon will work (koyo or something). The rear sway bar will be the most work to install because you will need to lower the rear subframe. It not difficult, it's only 4 17mm bolts (along with unhooking the end links). If you...

There are lots of suspension available for the CX5... I believe Hardrace has a KF chassis rear sway bar, AutoExe and others. Although you may need billet brackets for it, I haven't inquired to see what it comes with as I already have a (discountinued) CS sway bar. I'd start with a performance...

An interesting comparison..although it must be the base Hornet. The performance version has legit factory performance hardware.

226000 miles.. i need to start being more active here..

Recently did a brake job. Prices on basic full brake kits are back down to the $110-$150usd point on ebay.

Was able to get some tires (255/40/20) from priority tire fpr 119 ea...Tire prices been fluctuating a lot. Mostly more expensive. Done ripping myself paying 200+ for tires on a street car. Waiting for $100usd brake kits to restock next.

lol what, 55 usd for "hardware"? the little clips?

When in doubt, pull the abs 30 a fuse.. all wheels will spin (you can also drift too)

Good enough..

No i taped it off to cover the rubber and splines from cleaner/paint

Ordered a 27k axle from ebay for about 65 usd. I didn't want to replace the boot and grease due to exposure and it was vibrating, so it would need replaced eventually. Also a boot kit was 20-30usd. Came from the NE so its has surface rust which i have treated and and adding flat black paint (i...

Hit it with rustoleum gel, clean it and spray some flat black paint on it. I just bought a used axle because the boot in mine ripped and it came from a rust area.. cleaning up now with rustoleum then throwing paint on it.

5w30.. less blow means less consumption and less valve buildup (even though valve cleaner should be part of every oil change)

Last time I replaced my pads.. I paid $30 for all four. 272 USD for a mixutre of dirt and waste material lol.

I use CRC as it doesn't stall the engine... this makes it much easier to use solo. I also don't use even half the can, because I use it just prior to every oil change.. that should be part of regular maintenance imo, in the same as oil change and fuel system cleaner.. otherwise you end up...

Hadn't been driving the car as much so i was putting off some maintenance. Changed Engine. transfer and rear diff oils, rotated tires. Also discovered a ripped boot which is the source of some vibration. I thought it was from a plug I had installed in a tire.

Nothing wrong with UR, they are pretty known in the car community for bars (they specialize in bars). I would not pay the price AE asks for those strut bars, especially with the Japan shipping.. Just buying the tie rod ends from AE was pretty expensive. I had to buy their endlinks twice too...

Haven't heard of anyone trying this. I live in USA and swapped my lower "reflectors" for LED's that I wired into the rear running light. You could always wire them directly to the front fog light or an independent switch.. of course that's not an oem solution.