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What is your wideband o2 reading when this happens? what size injectors and how much boost on what sized turbo?

new bosch K/O bov and got a smaller tach. car is almost back together :)

all depends on how much boost pressure you run. as for the lag, are you looking for a car that is quick from 0-60 or from 60-XXX? sure you would run slower in a tight autox or when accelerating in 5th..but from the mouth of someone running a larger turbo..unless you are in a situation where...

fyi you may want to reset your facory ecu after doing this. If you think setting your stock throttle body idle is a b****, on my 1.8 swap I run no IACV. Just a throttle stop that keeps it idling nice when the motor is fully warmed, and a "warm up" switch which raises rpm when manually...

well this is the msp section. we dont have automatics. this is also the performance section. not really for trouble shooting this sort of stuff. maybe make a thread in the right section and you will get proper responses.

well now im in a chicken and egg scenerio The sounds I had been hearing from the drivetrain got progressively worse. Oddly enough most of the noise/vibration was coming from the front left. I figured the axles were fubar from all the changes I have been making to the engine / trans mounts...

vacuum leaks wont show during warmup as the high idle will keep the car running fine. having turkey also does not mean you do not have vac leaks. ive had a hole the size of a dime in IC piping before and still got turkey. also on every car I have owned pushing in the clutch has a minor effect...

fyi i have run a 3" turboback exhaust on both the stock turbo and large turbo with stock the muffler and no cats/resonators and the car is not loud at all. You can barely hear it.

sounds like you still have a vacuum leak that is letting out metered air. maybe see if you can pressurize your intake plumbing to see if you can find any leaks.

why do you think your turbo is dying?

sounds like it is either defective or not installed properly. Id have someone else take a look at it or call forge and tell them you want an exchange first before you go buy something.

I have not had the AFC in many years but I do remember that there is a setting somewhere in the software for when it actually starts to make changes of the stock signals. For a while i could not figure out why not matter what map I had loaded no changes were actually being made. then I realized...

do you have a link to the ad? because unless they say in the ad that it moves more volume then the stock pump, the "high volume" remark is just a description of an automotive oil pump in general and not specific to the toga vs oem pump... bad

do you have a green spring or yellow spring installed? do you have a proper boost/vac signal tapped or is it shared with the line to the wastegate?

well what ems are you using to tune these larger injectors? fyi the mechanical capacity of the stock engine and turbo will not allow for 20psi.

possibly a boost/vac leak. if it is bad enough it may take until 5k for the turbo to overcome the leak and build correct boost. did you double check everything after doing the head swap? could be a missing vac line or incorrectly setup vac lines / solenoids. or even a leaking intercooler pipe...

been busy moving from custom mounts to a oem mazda setup. 3rd gen protege 1.6 oem passenger side mount swap. 3rd gen protege 2.0 FSDE OEM drivers side top trans mount setup. 2/5 bolts line up, the rest I need to thread the trans as the holes are there on the 91-96 escort gt...

alternator could have loose wiring or could be on its way out. it is 10 years old after all. some shops test your battery/alternator for free btw

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just go on ebay and search from slim fans they work great. get 2 since you have AC and sell your stock fans if you want to make some money back.