Yes.. the power cut is excessive and you will lose acceleration assuming you have good tires. The more you explore the tcs/dcs the more you may find it counterintuitive a lot of times
Oh, your post read like you were looking to upgrade to an aftermarket wheel size.. in which case, sound isn't a metric important to me, grip and sidewall stiffness is. I don't have any recommendation in that respect.
Tbh 20x8.5 offset 40. Skip the 19's due to tire choices. Tires/wheels are cheap and the width gives good grip width options (255 a good width), that aren't excessive for power/cornering ability. 40 offset (on a 8.5" wide wheel) gives a "flush" appearance, but it's actually a few mm inside the...
Welcome back.. funny thing is my JBR front sway bar broke after like 1.5-2 years of use on a street car lmfao. They did replace it under warranty though.
Yea, I'm assuming you have a 2015 or older, I was replacing a blown strut (pair) and the nut pulled the stud out. Never got the stud al the way back in, but uts in enough to be mechanically sound. I did get a new drud however, for some future use. Although when that time comes I'm likely going...
You shouldnt have to remove the stud, in fact that's risky and it isn't supposed to come out (however the design sucks and it happens). They actually updated that part in the newer cx5s. Once you remove the 17mm bolt from the lca you can pull/compress the shock down by hand and wiggle it off.
I'd do some research on conversion rates, with whatever your car budget is over there, and because of registration, any government sales tax etc...Might result in a overall loss.
You have to bang it out (might be hard with the diff still in place), and you will have to unbolt the nut securing the differential through it. Easier just to fill it with an adhesive or urethane.
Haha, yea it's and adventure bike. Part tour part dirt bike. I already aired it on accident practicing getting up curbs.. tried to squat and bounce but pulled the throttle when I went up.. almost go bucked off it was wild