So my manual says use ATF M-III or equivalent (e.g. Dexron III) for the power steering fluid.
However, the cap says "Power Steering Fluid Only".
So, which is it ATF or PS Fluid?
I picked up an 07 sedan Thursday with 113k miles. Crossing my fingers that the MD inspection doesn't find anything major.
In my experience, most of the vehicles are being sold by a dealer or a guy who has a dealer license and buys and sells out of his house. So, very difficult to find one...
Lets see...
stock, new radiator, new water pump,
I use full synthetic 5w30, whatever is the cheapest oil deal that Advance Auto has at the time.
Change oil every 3500 miles
Never over reved, This is an automatic that my daughter is driving.
I use seafoam every 15k miles, but in the brake...
My protege is starting to burn oil :( burned about a quart over 1200 miles.
It has 226k miles and is rusting apart, so at this point I am just trying to keep it alive as long as possible.
Would switching to a higher weight oil help?
If so, what weight? 10w30 or jump all the way to 10w40
I use Motorcraft MTX-75.
- The miata guys swear by this stuff
- miata takes same spec gear oil as P5
- mine was developing a 3rd gear grind and this cleared it up
Its expensive from the Ford dealer. So your gonna wanna buy it here...
So, I am getting an intermittent P0421. Sometimes it will be confirmed and the CEL will come on. Sometimes I'll clear the codes and it will go through the whole drive cycle ok, but then 500 miles later I'll get a CEL.
I already have the spark plug non-fouler extension on my lower/2nd O2...
Depends what you mean by 'rear suspension'. Basic suspension parts should be the same (springs, shocks, rear lower trailing arm). But the P5 has 5 lugs and the protege has 4 lugs, so if your talking about the whole rear assembly then they are different.
Code came back when temp dropped.
Good news, I believe it is now fixed.
I replaced the battery and idle is noticeably lower and code has not come back.
Make sure you do an OBD II scan. Make sure there are no codes and all the Readiness stuff comes back as 'Ready' or 'n/a'.
In my experience all the emissions stuff on these cars can be a PITA.
Re-read my original post....
I did not replace anything. I swapped (as in moved from one position to the other) coil packs and passenger side (#2 and #3) spark plugs when I got the P0302.
My reasoning was, since the code was constant, I could find out if the code either 'followed' the bad spark...
So, back in January I got a P0302 (Cylinder #2 misfire)
- swapped passenger side spark plugs
- swapped ignition coils
Just got a P0304 (Cylinder #4 misfire)
Am I correct in my thinking that the driver's side coil pack is most likely the problem, or possibly the wire underneath the coil pack...