#4 rod bearing spun @ 224 miles on the new engine. The rod is wrecked and the head has to come off. The rod nuts didn't exhibit any lack of torque upon removal, so that wasn't the cause. Basically, a complete bottom end rebuild is in order.
I'll let the pics speak for themself:
1-4...
Doubtful that it's the EGR. How loud is it? Are they Mazda or aftermarket belts? Is the A/C on when this happens?
On the Miata, just about every belt from Advance that I've had on there shrieks on startup.
One last one. Everything connected and installed. I'm on the hunt for different coils, hence the mismatched wires. I currently am still using the 1.6L coil pack as a temporary solution. COP would be ideal, but not easily executable with the 01+ valve cover arrangement.
Beautiful car and great price to boot! Congrats! Stock LE's typically fetch a premium.
Unfortunately, I can't offer much assistance to your questions.
It's just old. There's not much you can do about it. It's likely that the rubber bushings used as bumpers for the CD carrier have...
Without more info on the GM MAF, I'm going to say this isn't easily doable. The Miata's VAM has as an inverted slope 5-0VDC voltage as opposed to most MAFs that use a 0-5VDC output.
What class do you plan to auto-x? Have you considered MegaSquirt? It removes the VAM and instead use a MAP...
After a couple months of plotting and planning, the '01 Engine is finally assembled, installed, and running in the CSP car. I have a few hundred miles of break-in miles to go before I unleash it on the dyno or at an auto-x, but it should be good to go for nationals this year. The engine is...
It looks to me that the seat angle of the lugs was wrong yielding only a small amount of contact area. The lugs seated just enough to yeild proper torque, but over time the wheel flexed enough to fail. Essentially, the lug nuts wedged themselves through the wheel.
Might I suggest looking into MegaSquirt. You'll end up with the same result for about $200 and a lot less overhead.
Thanks for the update with the link! That can be quite handy to have around.
The 1.6 does not have crank walk. The known "issue" is that of the short nose crank failure. Though, "issue" is subjective in my opinion as it relates to improper maintenance. Observe proper torque ratings and it'll be fine.
1.6L + boost = good. One of the inital applications of this engine...
Just to correct a few bits for reference:
-No Miata (or B-series engine) ever came from the factory with a long nose crank. The 91.5+ models were supplied with what is known as the big nose crank which significantly improved the seating area of the lower timing cog and pulley. The long nose...