Call Mazda first, see what they say. Often manufacturers will help out as they are more interested in customer satisfaction then independent dealers.
But if no on both ends, go to local store and get them to swap a used on in, and after just change fluid regularly, no matter what Mazda manual says.
They try to make cars cheaper and cheaper nowa days.
A few electrical glitches are a nuisance for sure, but I'd not mark it unreliable just yet.
If you read the posts here, you see in general a lot of maintenance and little upgrades here and there threads and a few problems thread pop up every...
This sounds like a mount. They are fluid filled, so check if you get any oil like substance on any of the motor mounts, if you do see it, replace that one.
Or just buy a pack of 3 on-line and swap them out, not a very hard job, just some wrenching.
Most modern belts don't crack, they just snap. Your belt is about 8 years old so consider replacing it along with the tensioner.
Belts don't rust, so not sure where the brown is from, probably dust from other stuff.
Free gauge to check your belt...
could be bad radiator cap, not building up the pressure.
Could be bad blend door actuator, just stuck in the cold and not mixing in any hot air.
Can be blown fuse.
Could be blocked/failed heater core.
Could be bad knob or computer issues.
Dealer should be able to diagnose in 30 minuted.
Not yet.
The longest I've had one set on is about 1.5 years before changing the car :)
Since I don't rave and drive ins a mostly flat ground I don't put any serious load on the brakes.
Slotted design was mostly for looks, not need :)
1st: I don't race or drive aggressively.
I've been using MAX pads and rotors on my last family 4 cars and happy with the result.
Currently have it installed on my Mazda 5 fronts and they work well for the past 10km, I got their "black edition"
Remember that slotted rotors will have slightly...
Engine swap.
To rebuild your engine you are looing into 3k-4k and usually they don't run well after.
Engine swap should be 2k-3k but at least it will run, just look for low mileage one.
Interesting, I used this brand and was ok but on a different car with good results.
Too bad about the clip, I have not done the rears yet, so can't tell you from experience, sorry.
Front, back brakes?
Do you mean side shims on the once on the back of the pad? You can apply disk brake quiet compound to the back of the pads.
Mine had no side shims but had rear.
Maybe you got some badly made pads that are too small (dunno)
Wow, 400k, where the heck do you drive? (drinks)
I'm averaging 10k a year, that would take me 40 years to do...
On my truck I can barely do 5k, that would be basically mission impossible for me.
This open for debate. people like many different brands for different reasons.
I went with a no-name Chinese.
But you can get fancier units form Kenwood, Alpine and similar.
There are many solutions.
You can get an aftermarket unit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/200966543359
Yu can get any number of generic 7 inch head units ranging from brand names to cheaper units and just install with an adapter.
All of them are compatible with a good $20-$30 backup camera.
Not sure...
humming sounds like bearing.
Your mechanic should be able to trouble shoot bearings no matter the car make. Normally when they fail after a 15 minute drive you can use IR temperature gun to measure temperature differences
and the failed bearing will be much warmer compare to the working one on...