Search results

and btw if your turbo is lagging it has nothing to do with this. odds are you have another problem (more than likely leaking IC couplings(anything but T-bolt clamps are a joke and should be replaced asap), a bad bov connection or an intake manifold leak). the stock setup should spool very...

the vac/boost line from the manifold opens the wastegate at 6-7psi stock. by putting the mbc inline you are disrupting the signal to the wastegate so that it takes more than 6-7psi of boost pressure for it to open. the reason your instructions show it there is because it is a universal mbc...

yes there is only 1 line to wastegate. just run a vac line from intake manifold to mbc "in". then run a line from mbc "out" to wastegate. it cannot be described any easier than this. intake manifold------->mbc------->wastegate

take the line currently running to the stock wastegate and hook to forge mbc "in" port. then make a new line and run from forge mbc "out" port to the stock wastegate vac nipple. if you get it backwards...not good as boost will begin to rise uncontrollably. make sure your first few runs are...

fyi from my experience journal bearing turbos seem like they have a bit of shaft play until they have oil in them. not alot, but a bit.

new exhaust is in but still a bit too low. its hard because the turbo outlet also hangs low and is kinda in the way a bit. at least it was better than before. hopefully good weather will come soon and these will be the last winter mode pics. really wanna lower the car and finish tuning this year.

briant mentioned reverse lights. did you check to see if yours are turning on yet?

here is how you could see how close they are safelty 1st. you need a way to datalog the stock maf 2nd. install the new maf in the intake alongside the stock MAF (keep them far apart that they dont cause each others readings to skew). leave the stock maf plugged in. Wire up the new MAF so that...

for all you know the previous owner spent 10 minutes adjusting the stock wastegate by extending the arm so that it opens earlier after reading about people blowing their motor, or even if they only had 89 gas available locally and wanted to keep boost pressure well on the safe side of things...

ya but on the first page of this thread: so i dont know. but if someone who knows what they are doing decides to develop a kit I bet alot of people would be interested if it has good results, good price and if it isnt too hard to install.

heres another way to do it from the datsun community. they have them mounting to the rear instead of the front. interesting approach since you dont need that big front bar. http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/nissan-tires-wheels-brakes-suspension/319446-got-traction-rl-traction-bars-here.html

back from the dead. did any companies end up making these? if not can someone in the aftermarket please make a set

15-18psi on what turbo?

just go grab a junkyard motor for cheap and a case of beer.

fyi without EGR the car does not idle well at all in cold temps on first start up. I remember having to use my foot as a IAC to keep it from stalling whenever it got really cold out.

lol you throw one code and you hate your car? MSP > OP ;)

just use the signal from the rear lights to trigger a relay that turns on the camera. Run a dedicated power wire (fused) from the battery for the camera relay. It takes 5 minutes to run the wire from the battery to the trunk.

i no longer have driveway space for a back up car, thats my excuse.

might not be your turbo. A good place to start is to remove the intake and upper intercooler piping and look for excessive oil in the pipes and to check the turbine wheel for shaft play. A simple $3 PCV valve can cause the issue you are describing. Whine/gobble sounds are normal.

well technically I have a street driven built "I used the term built loosely when compared to cars like mp5t" car driven year round...just might be shy of OPs 340hp goal until I grow some balls and turn up the boost. and Im pretty sure i could have 8-10 mint BP drivetrains waiting in reserve...