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Yeah, in my limited searching I haven't come across any new struts that will work with lowering springs. I also searched for "protege monotube struts" and found nothing. I was mainly doing that for fun, since I'd be tickled to just get rid of my clunks and get the car back to factory ride...

I've been meaning to reply to this thread earlier, but this whole strut/clunk thing has been confusing me. Mainly because I don't know for sure where the clunks are coming from, but also due to the relative lack of good options for our cars, at least in terms of complete strut assemblies...

All of my mounts except the manual transmission mount have been replaced with OEM parts. I simply can't tell if that last mount actually needs replacing or not. Anyone have any advice on how to inspect it, or do I just remove battery/tray, air box, coolant overflow, etc. and stick my head in...

I was teaching my then-girlfriend to drive stick a couple years ago. She wanted to learn and if she got proficient in the P5, I'd have let her try the Miata. Years ago, I was going to sell the P5 and get a somewhat-practical BRZ, but then realized I could just have two cars and check both...

Yep, it looks like two of the three bolts on the OEM P5 rear strut mounts are longer, and it is to accommodate two double decker nuts for the retractor brackets (left: B25H-57-99XE, right: B25H-57-92XE) that are perched on top of the strut mounts as seen in two pics here...

I finally tried the bare metal key in the glove box and it worked. Valet keys must no longer be a thing - especially in the age of keyless start. :)

Amazon has the KYB rear right strut mount for sale for only $12, so I ordered one to troubleshoot my clunks on that corner. The other ones (rear left and fronts) seem to be regular price, and I'll order them if this one helps. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018JQHCW/ Rock Auto lists this part...

The link for discounted parts above should always work for our car. I imagine RA blasts them out to vehicle owners from time to time, but you can google how to generate the link for discounted parts for any given car at any time. EDIT: Here's the link for the 2003 P5 in case any parts are...

Because I'd replaced the ignition switch above, I went and dug the valet key - or whatever it is called when you have a hatchback :) - out of my drawer. I've never used it in 20 years, and it feels a lot crisper in the ignition than the other one. If you've still got yours, give it a whirl!

Well, I wrapped the ball joint boot and that silicone tape is some pretty neat stuff. I don't know how long it will last in this application, but I can apply it again and again (and hopefully do a better job each time) as needed. It was only $5 a roll at Home Depot. I haven't been driving...

I'm seeing some advice on YouTube to use silicone stretch-and-seal tape. That might work a little better than an adhesive simply due to the nature of the mating surfaces (or lack thereof). I'm going to run to the hardware store and get some. I'll try it out and report back. I've located a...

I think a pickle fork can still touch the boot. I didn't damage the boot when separating the ball joint from the knuckle/spindle. I was still being careful at that point :D and was using a big pry bar only on the "arm part" of the LCA. I probably damaged the boot by letting it come in contact...