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As it were, I pushed in the slave cylinder piston by hand. Ha! Didn't think it would have that result though. I really expected the pedal push to immediately pump it back up.

I don't know what the hell the problem is. I reached down there and pulled the pedal up, and I was able to build pressure. Perhaps my slave cylinder is just going bad? I'm going to have to research this more. But I just started the car!!!!!!!

Thanks guys. Unfortunately, I got in the car and pressed the clutch- it just fell to the floor. Something is wrong here... I think it may be the slave cylinder, but not sure how to test it. Seems like there is NO pressure on it. I can push the slave in and out, and i can seemingly move the...

The main bearings can be replaced with the crank sill in the engine. (I did it last night) You just have to rotate the top bearing out, and rotate the new bearing in. Assembly lube is, of course, required. Thanks for the info!

I am hoping to finish up installing my new main bearings tonight. I've already gotten the rod bearings installed. Just have 5 mains and then putting everything back together. Does anyone know how long the engine should be run before doing any kind of revving or driving under load, etc? I assume...

Payment sent for oil pressure, temp, o2/voltage gauges and oil filter adapter plate.

PM'ed for payment info...

Interested in the oil temp and pressure gauges, and the adapter plate. What series are the gauges?

To my knowledge, the allen bolt simply positions the caliper side pad towards or away from the rotor. This is important because the cable-driven hand brake only has a short movement. However, the hydraulic pressure from the brake system should have no problem pushing the piston a large distance...

Yeah, unless you do the job correctly. OP, there is a star bolt hidden behind a small bolt on the back side of the caliper. This is used to adjust the parking brake at the calipers. Additionally, you could adjust the parking brake at the handle itself. Sounds like you just need to tighten them...

+1 haha!

Oh wait... sorry- I wasn't really thinking straight on this. I used the metal plate on the outside of the left side mount like in the pics. The right side mount doesn't get any plates. I also used washers to help the zip ties from digging into the mount over time.

It was knocking above 2300rpm. It was crazy hard to diagnose though because 1) I've never heard an engine knock, and 2) it sounded a lot more like a "rattle" than a knock. It was a very hollow, metallic rattle. I bought a mechanic's stethoscope and started probing around. As best I could tell...

That cruise control actuator is very annoying when trying to loosen the tensioning bolt on the alternator! When I have to remove my belts, I've made it a practice to remove the two 10mm bolts holding the CC actuator in place, and move the CC out of the way. This only requires removing the two...

When you put the inserts in the side mounts, the order will be- Metal disk --> insert --> mount rubber <-- insert <-- metal disk And you use two zip ties to hold it all together. I've seen one person omit the zip ties replacing them with long bolts. Personally, though I think it's a little...

Thanks! Moral of the story is to check your oil regularly- even if your car doesn't appear to consume oil... I seriously lucked out with only one connecting rod bearing destroyed. The crankshaft journal is still in good shape, and isn't out of round. I don't have any way to check the wrist pins...