Search results

That's one of the coolest pictures I've seen in a long time. Nice shot!

This ^. Also you can't really just drop forged internals in because there is a massive weight difference between forged and OEM. You will need to get the crank balanced for the new weight which I would HIGHLY recommend getting the journals micro-polished. Then you'll need to get the cylinder...

Where the heck is my write up!!!! De-power my steering rack!!!!

I plan on having the build completed before spring so I'll definitely be coming out to as many meets as I can (or the wife allows). Yeah I'm running a GT3071, and I think we are definitely in the same boat because I have purchased a lot of engine mods and suspension but hardly any exterior mods...

There's nothing a little modification won't fix, and I figure if the cutting up of the front crash bar didn't make it illegal then I shouldn't have too much of a problem. English, let me know if you're interested.

I will trade you my rear bumper for yours in a heartbeat. Is there a certain color you're looking for or do you plan on repainting it? Let me know if you're interested.

True enough but the diagram was just to give a pretty good idea, I would hope that the OP would know where to locate a pressure source from.

Yeah the pictures don't do the block justice, that cross hatch is beautiful. Also some may have been able to tell that the picture of the crank is before the journals were micro-polished.

Sounds good! AP, where in NOVA? I would like to check out the ride at some point, there's not many Mazda owners around this area that I know of.

And we thank you for that good sir! (2thumbs)

WOW! I completely forgot to update this, thanks for the bump. I'm definitely leaning towards the SSR's and once everything is up and running I'll probably purchase them. Here's a pretty big update for those of you following this. I dropped my engine off at the machine shop mid-july and was told...

You do have the stock oil cooler in place I would assume since you have an MSP. That should work well enough for Auto-X but like Rally said if you plan on doing extended track time in your car you'll definitely want something bigger to provide better cooling. Also you'll be able to get more oil...

Glad you're almost done with this build but why did you decide to use the stock Protege alternator and spend $300 on "custom" rectifier and regulator instead of just getting a simpler and proven to work alternator from a 626? I'm not trying to rain on your parade or anything I'm just wondering...

That's what I was thinking, what are these GT-AE gears you speak of and where did you get them. Looking at the gear ratios and having a redline of 7700 will have a really even power distribution throughout the gears. Is this build towards daily driving/road racing/auto-x? Either way, I'm sure...

So how close are you to getting this thing running? Glad to see that the 626 alternator worked out well, so with it being internally regulated at least you don't have to mess with the tables anymore. I can't imagine switching was very difficult, hopefully they didn't charge you an arm and a leg...

If you plan on getting to that hp/tq goal I would suggest either getting a par gearset or possibly jump in on the group buy by MFactory going on right now. And you'll have a say in the first production run of them (gear ratios, synchros, etc.). While you're at it you might as well get a MFactory...

I like the grinder idea, probably going to use that trick.

Looks like he bought it from VIPMSP on here. I have the same hood and it'll definitely fit a little more flush once you get the hood pins in.

The trans will not hold at 400hp/tq, the gears are too weak and the lsd as well. Most have had luck with Haltechs but a standalone with someone that knows how to properly tune it will work regardless. You will want to upgrade your fuel pump so make that a priority and I would suggest a much...