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Have you tried Corrosion X HD? How does the Rust Free compare?

FYI - Plasti Dip read matches classic red very well. When I had a red P5 all the exterior parts that were plastic (rear wing, bumpers, sideskirts, side mirrors) had clearing clearcoat. I used red plasti dip and then sprayed plasti dip gloss over it. It was very difficult to tell at > 10 ft.

Also, around the gas cap. I think the little flaps in the lower rear are leaking on my cars.

It is a regular Auto. Didn't even know there was a sportronic (paddles correct?) Part arrive's tomorrow. Note sure when I'll have time to put it on. Weekend is looking busy may just burn the midnight oil and get it done tomorrow night. I'll post back success or failure. Haven't read...

So, the TR Switch is the same as the Neutral Safety Switch?

So, got this code on my Automatic P5. I can't find very much info on it. This thread seams to be the most detailed... https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123826886-Neutral-safety-switch-trouble-shooting But the links to the pics are dead and that is a manual. Is the Neutral Safety...

Yeah, I was looking at the Monroe Quick Struts and thinking that especially if I went that route (and had a new spring) it would be a good idea to at least replace both fronts.

I am getting a crunching sound from RF wheel when going over bumps, also getting vibration at highway speeds from RF wheel. Shop tells me it is the strut. Some Questions... 1) Can I replace just the one strut? What if I use one of the quick struts which includes the spring? 2) If I need to...

Good write up. Just changed my bulbs today.

Got another Protege5, looks pretty clean... But looks can be deceiving... Started grinding down any rust I could find, under rear wheel well just kept grinding until I ended up with this... So, is it feasible for someone to weld some extra metal for some more structural strength?

Thanks that helps. Ordered the B00146134 bolt, even though it isn't listed as part for an 03 P5. In the mean time I got a 5/16-18 x2 Bolt from Lowe's with a washer and stop nut. Held today over about 20 miles of driving.

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I have 285k on the clock. Oil consumption has gotten quite high. 2.25 qts over 3000 mile period. I use synthetic 5w30 with a oci of 4000 miles. I want to try a higher weight oil to see if it cuts down on the consumption. What weight would you recommend?

Sylvania's have a 1 yr warranty. You should be getting free ones for replacement.

So, need to replace the right front motor mount on my automatic. Looks pretty easy. Q: Where do I place the jack to hold the motor up? I was thinking of putting a small 2x4 under the oil pan and then jacking up from there. Is that the best place? Thanks,

Broke on my daughter's car today (the 02). Changed this evening, no prob.

One of my front calipers seized today. A little WD-40 freed it up. But I know thats a temp fix. Looks like I should use this stuff... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018PSASU/?tag=m20b7-20 But, where exactly should I be lubricating? Thanks,

I agree on always getting a manual, but this is a learner car for my kids. Just bought another 07 S Sedan auto, grey. Exact same as my previous. Don't even need to change my sig :)

hah, your funny. I am looking at sub $4000 cars. I am mostly dealing with curb-stoners and buy here pay here places. It is unlikely I will find one with any maintenance history. Is the 2.0 engine the same engine that is in the Miata?

I am looking at buying another Mazda 3 and had some questions... 1) 2004 is the first year, is this year more prone to issues? 2) 2.0ltr vs. 2.3ltr I realize the power and mpg difference, is there any difference in reliability? Thanks,