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The transmissions on FWD models have not been problematic, based on the lack of posts this forum. I have the fluid swapped at a garage every 60k or so.

Lots of gotchas on these, a couple are major, the rest are annoying. Your car had the front bearings done, the rear ones have also been known to fail. The control arms were part of a recall for excessive corrosion. Search the forum for these topics: Water pump failure trashes engine Transfer...

How fast were you going? It appears that the paddle board was acting like a wing and peeled the rack off. I've seen racks with air deflectors that prevent air from passing between the cargo and roof which may have helped in this situation.

Cracking issues are usually related to heat cycling. There were posts here that identified the cracks as starting near or at the exhaust manifold studs in the head. This area of the engine gets really hot very quickly when the engine starts and runs, then it cools down back to ambient when the...

Poor maintenance doesn't lead to a cracked cylinder head. Let's be reasonable. This is a design issue or manufacturing defect. If it's a design issue, everyone with this engine has something to worry about. Hopefully, it is a manufacturing process control issue that only impacted a limited...

Check your oil, make sure it isn't contaminated with water. If that isn't it, the variable valve timing actuators have been known to fail occasionally, which causes this issue.

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/index.php?threads/2011-mazda-cx-9-evap-purge-solenoid-location.123865409/#post-6602215

I have experienced this when the battery is nearly dead. However, others have seen the "Christmas tree" dash when either the alternator voltage is low, or when the body control module is going bad. Since the battery is new, it should be putting out 12V. You can check this, and assuming it's...

Used engines are in the $2-3k range, and can be swapped in for another couple grand in labor. It seems like it's worth around $8-9k with a working engine. If it were me, I'd probably scrap it and move on. What shape is the rest of the car in?

True, but you can always save the oil that came out when the plug was removed, retap, then put the old oil back in to flush out any shavings before putting in new oil. Also, there are ways to reduce the likelihood of getting metal into the pan in the first place while tapping. Finally, there...

The story you are being told sounds dubious to me. It's more likely that the threads were damaged somehow and they installed an oversized self tapping plug to fix it. I say "somehow" because it could have been an accidental overtightening or just bad luck. I've had bolts threaded into...

You could search the forums for engine failure or similar terms, read through the threads, and build a list of usernames of people who had a 2.5T replaced. There are two general symptoms that seem to lead to engine replacement: misfiring or a coolant leak. Both seem to be related to issues...

Deka, Optima, Braille, Odyssey, and others make AGM batteries that are 20-30% lighter than the traditional flooded batteries. It's a relatively cheap and easy way to save weight if you are scrounging to save every pound (think race car here, it's of marginal use on a daily driver). Other, even...

Water leaking into the turbo and into the intake or exhaust is not likely. Oil, yes. Water, no. The bearings can sometimes leak oil into the intake or exhaust if the oil pressure is off or the bearings get trashed, but the water circulates through the bearing housing and doesn't have a path...

Sorry to hear you had the water pump failure. The short answer as to why there has been no recall is that it hasn't been deemed a safety issue. When the water pump fails, the engine doesn't immediately lose power or stop, it takes a little while to die, and usually you get some check engine...

I have a 2010, in Florida. The clear coat on the plastic rear shade/spoiler over the rear liftgate glass started peeling just like yours 4-5 years ago. Perhaps Florida sun is too much for Mazda paint? Perhaps you can get the body shop to cut you a deal when you get the front bumper replaced...

This seems to happen in various Mazda models when the battery voltage drops below the normal value. There are several threads on this forum describing this behavior in CX-9's and CX-5's. You can reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and then holding the brake pedal down...

There are 10+ options on RockAuto.com alone for rear brake pads and even more for the front.

The list price for an OEM long block assembly is over $6k alone. The labor to pull the engine and replace the water pump at dealer rates has been quoted in the $2k+ range. By the time they throw in all the gaskets, belts, and other crap required to swap the engine at full MSRP, I can see how...

The parts catalog lists 2010-2015 as having the same engine assembly. I would swap the water pump on a used engine before installing. It's relatively easy to do once the engine is out and cheap insurance.