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Crap, this is actually happening to me now. The tank is listed for 500 bucks. No friggin way mine is under warranty at 218K miles..... What did you end up doing?

I need the spare tire hold down stuff, if it didn't have a factory sub.

would you take 200 for em?

Need the bolt and washer that hold the spare down for a p5 without a factory subwoofer. I assume that a sedan setup would work also.

I had an Injen CAI and an HKS Hiper exhuast. Not much of a difference when I removed them other than the car was quieter and got better milage. Very very slight decrease in seat of the pants feel over 5500 or so RPM And if anyone doubts the quality of the OBX header.... Mine has over 120,000...

OBX header and VTCS removal for power, anything else is more for sound. OBX is around 200, VTCS removal is the cost of a intake gasket set....

Finally changed the (factory orginal) timing belt, water pump, tensioner/idler/spring, front seal, removed all of the factory sub stuff (wiring and all the plastic crap that wastes trunk space) Changed the oil. Amazingly, everything but the idler and tensioner were nice and fine. The timing...

oh joy.... Another fun thing to cut up and weld up on my P5

Not many people have scopes :) The difference in autozone PN's might be the wire length...

Double check all the connections, maf etc. could have had something fall off or there is some water in one of the connectors.

Sounds like it. You have to remove the trans....It's not that hard, I've had the trans out of mine before. I'd try and lube the other stuff first though, before ripping into the trans.

pull up the carpet inside and see if there is any kind of access to the top of that. There might be a bump or dimple where you can take a holesaw and get to the nut.

It takes me less than a minute to adjust the rears on mine. The rear panels snap on and off. You drill a hole in the seatbelt mount for access to the adjuster. And to top it off, the rears are usually the ones you want to adjust.... Koni will never make direct replacements for the protege...

Sounds like swaybar bushings, for the one squeak. The other inside the trans when the PEDAL is depressed is the throwout bearing, or clutch fork. Is the clutch hard to depress? You probably have a throwout bearing going bad.

a scope? a simple multimeter is all you need for the o2 voltages. ( I suggest a nice scantool though, they pay for themselves quickly) I second the crap universal 02's, a freind of ine had the same codes with the cheapo 02s. He ended up having to get the direct fit ones to remedy the problem...

Something wrong, that caused something to break.

I've hit 460+ I've put like 14.9 gallons in- and that's auto pump shutoff, not me blipping the pump to get as much as possible.

I punctured a tire on my p5 and had to drive my boat to work today. Ugh

Wierd, thought I had that... Updated the profile.

my 205K mile motor looks perfect inside.... Never did any seafoam or anything to it. Original timing belt. The EGR is on the throttle body. Pretty easy to get to and find. Just follow the steel pipe on the driver side of the motor that comes of fthe exhaust manifold and you will see it...