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If the door ajar lamp is on then you likely have a bad 'striker switch' at one of the doors. I cannot recall if having one of the doors open prevents the vehicle from locking but if you can determine which one of those switches is bad that may be the fix.

Either what sm1ke said or your door striker switch is broken on one of the doors. The fact that your courtesy lights stay on and the door ajar message is a clear indicator something is up. Not sure what door may be causing that but you'll need to figure that out. I suspect the vehicle won't lock...

They do make thread chasers that you can run down with a socket vs. using the stock setup with the longer handle. However, at that point the cost of the set may be close to the replacement part. If it is that accessible maybe it is your best route.

You should remove the filter and closely inspect the threads on the housing and the filter you used. That will give you an idea of whether you have a problem or not. Spin on filters usually only need a good hand tight seal so it does sound like something is going on with your setup. If the...

Usually a different last digit represents an update to the prior version. In the case above the "E" would be the latest update to the hub.

So you are talking about the high mount brake light? I thought you were talking about the interior light. That brake light may require removal of quite a bit more than the interior light. My vehicles is at another home so I cannot check that out. Either way I'd say the process would be the...

Purchase the new one and it should be obvious how it goes back together on the tailgate. I have taken this approach many times and seeing the component is often all you need to go by.

As long as it's just sitting the coolant will sit at the bottom of the oil pan and the oil will float on top of that. I'd say you are fine to leave it alone at this point and I hope the damage was kept to a minimum and the new pump is all you need to have replaced.

Have any of these shops looked at the PTU that is in the front of the vehicle that drives the rear driveshaft. It's a well known issue on these models with the Ford drivetrain. They decided that the PTU is not servicable and has lifetime fluid. What happens, over time, is the factory fill turns...

I really don't know what to say then. That noise is caused by vibration between the metal parts or some foreign material stuck between the pads and rotors. The latter would likely show as gouge marks on the rotors. The only other thing I can think of is 'bedding in the pads' by doing some...

What are you replacing? Pad and rotors or just the pads. That noise is not very difficult to stop with application of brake lube to the proper spots on the pistons and the caliper 'ears' and guide pins. If these shops are not performing that basic function when doing the job I hope you can find...

Assuming that eBay part is the right color for you, and it appears to be, that saves you the additional expense of painting a new part. It seems to be a decent deal and it looks like all the clips are there as well so hopefully it's a simple install. Also good that your brake light remained on...

Pirelli are top rated on Tire Rack and that price is pretty decent.

That is the kind of follow-up that everyone should do. Extremely helpful to anyone else who may have that issue. Thank you.

Yes, sure sounds like the torque converter staying locked at lower speed/gear.

I have not yet reached that mileage on mine but I have heard the 3.7 can have timing chain tensioner and guide issues. Throw the potential water pump issue in and I'd be looking for a discount for the cost of the replacement of the chains and the pump (since it's all related).

I don't have any experience with this engine going that long personally but you should do some google research about the timing components at that mileage. There may be a common pattern with them.

How many miles are on the vehicle? That's a pretty important data point. There are plenty of codes there related to some expensive components. The cam position sensors are the biggest red light though. If they are throwing codes the issue could be timing chain, or related parts.

Buy a small bottle of brake fluid and pour it into a glass then siphon some out of your master cylinder to another glass and compare samples. It won't cost much and will give you a clear picture of what you are dealing with.

How many miles on the vehicle? If it's way up there you could have issues with the timing chain stretching or issues with the tensioner or the guides.