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When I owned my '08 CX9 (Mazda borrowed the engine/chassis from Ford Edge), owners ran into wheel bearing failure (not on mine, though through my 8 yrs of ownership). Mazda claimed that, dirt went into the bearing and caused them to fail prematurely ... newer parts had better protection again...

Prevent fob battery drain: Where I place my fobs is not that far from my garage. I obviously have no data to show that this matters. Feel free to question it. I know how PKE (Passive Keyless Entry) works. ;) Relay Theft: With my fob in a Faraday box near the door, I cannot even open the door...

Indeed. They are too small to make big difference. I have them on my '17 CX5 (installed DIY), and decided to skip them for my '22. Personal opinion, of course.

I just replaced the driver side one of my '17 CX5. It has been 7 yrs. The passenger side one still works. Note: battery is 2320, not 2032 ... the latter is more common. I had to buy 2320s from Amazon. Very easy to replace in 1 min.

I don't think this is a common problem w/ CX-5. Maybe at some point, bad fuel got into the system. Do you run it low often before refill? Maybe time to check/replace fuel filter also at 188k kms.

Maybe go to another Mazda dealer if not too far away. In general, dealers don't like to debug rattles or noises.... not very cost effective to them.

If you drop the transmission pan (drain-n-refill proces), only half of the fluid will come out. The other half is locked up in torque converter.

Maybe have someone rev the engine and you can try to pin point source of noise under the hood. What I hear is mechanical friction... Could also be heat shield again a moving part. I would start by locating source of noise along the belt.

Save mode is great for the backup fobs. I was talking about my frequently used fobs. A bit extreme to put it into save mode everyday, IMHO.

Every CEL comes with a code. Just need to get it out somehow.

The difference between 2032 and 2025 is the thickness. 20 (first 2 digits): diameter = 20mm = 2cm 32 (last 2 digits): 3.2 mm 25 (last 2 digits): 2.5 mm. If you can fit in a 2032 w/o breaking it... it will last longer... Same voltage = 3V.

What is the code, then?

OP has not responded to his own thread for 1 month.

I got a small faraday box to store all my fobs. Tested it. With a fob is in it, and I held the box near the door, could not lock or unlock it. $10 on Amazon. Prevent fob battery drain and relay theft.

I used to have a dash cam I bought online. (forgot the brand name) After a while, my GPS started to go wild .... e.g. putting the loc in Pacific Ocean. I traced the problem down to the dash cam, which was interfering with the GPS reception. Be ware of untested electronics devices for EMI. Now...

No problem w/ my '17. No CD (cylinder deactivation), no turbo issues. Only problem I have so far (not fixed yet) is the belt tensioner (leaking oil). Both my '16 Mazda6 and '17 CX5 had/have this issue. My '14 Maza3 has no such issue.

Cannot confirmed for iStop, but my Mazda6 ('16) with iELoop needs to visit dealership on every battery change (4-5 yrs, done twice already). Cost is more than $500 (CA cost). iEloop = AGM battery + SuperCap + re-gen braking + clutch-controlled alternator. All those to save you 1mpg... so Mazda...

I used 91 for a few tanks (mostly 87). Same commute route, same schedule. I only observe 0.1-0.2mpg better MPG with 91 over 87. (with go-with-the-flow kind of driving... mixed highway/city)

It is not resetting the battery per se, it is programming the new battery with the Mazda system. One needs to do this if your Mazda has iStop or iEloop (some '16-17 GT models). You need to get an AGM battery and programming by the dealers... cost? $400-500 in CA.

Hope it works better than Skyactiv-X this time. We have not seen it in US yet. Now, Z is coming... :unsure: