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It’s a 2015 (bought it in 2014) GT. Just doing the front. I just recently had the rear rotors turned and new pads put on.

This is definitely what is happening with EVERYTHING....cars, houses, etc. The prices the pros charge for repairs isn't sustainable but as long as people live on credit and charge these services to their card it won't get any better. Conversely with the HUGE labor shortage in the trades maybe...

After a little research it looks like I can get Bosch Quiet Cast rotors and pads for $150 total. Might be worth the extra money to have the Bosch name/reputation…or maybe not. I know next to nothing about which brands are better.

Thanks for the responses. I’d normally get OEM but the car has nearly 100k and at this point I feel ok putting quality after market brake parts on the car.

These service quotes people post are wild. I can’t believe the prices charged. My local dealer wants $70 for an oil change and I started doing my own due to the cost. I can’t imagine paying $143 for one. We’re living in a wild time where Covid made companies believe the public would pay anything...

I did end up having a shop do it. It made a world of difference in not only getting rid of that clunk but the handling is better and it got rid of a semi-concerning steering wheel shake under braking on the highway. Just need an alignment now but all in with OEM LCAs should be about $850.

The nice thing about BAM wholesale is they don’t charge tax (at least where I live).

Curious if Power Stop products are good. It's been a minute since I've DIY'ed brakes and I'm used to what my local Napa or Autozone would have in stock. I've never used Power Stop stuff but the reviews seem good. Here's a link to the kit I want to buy...

Quick update for anybody who cares. Did the change. Transfer case was easy peasy. Rear...well, yeah...those are some tight clearances. Luckily my neighbor has a lot of tools. It's definitely doable but like others have said...get stubby sockets. I only ordered a stubby for the fill hole but...

I have a 2015 CX5 and when I purchased it, it was hands down the worst purchasing experience I've had. It's a long story but after several delays with the car being delivered to the dealership, it finally arrived...at the wrong dealership. And during transit they claimed they had "lost" track of...

@tomcat1446 Just had mine done yesterday. You can see the prices I paid a few posts up from here. I paid $250 (I'm in Salt Lake) for labor and bought OEM replacements. I trust my mechanic and he said he had trouble getting the pinch bolts off. He resorted to heat and hammers. I'll need an...

@JoeS1020 I'm dealing with a replacement of both front LCAs (only one side's ball joint is failing but BOTH LCAs have torn main bushings). I found OEM parts for about $400 on BAM Wholesale and a local shop will install them for about $300 (depends on if the bolts are seized or not). $1400 sounds...

Thanks. Found some Lucas Oil stuff that should work. $10/bottle. Yeah, the price of SG1 is steep.

Went to pick up SG1, talked to the parts guy and he says for 2015 and earlier models they still fill with 80w90 still. Weighed the pros and cons for like two seconds in my head and ultimately decided to stick with 80w90. This is a different dealer than the one who changed my rear diff a few...

Just checked my service receipts and I had the rear diff changed at 60k with SG1...so I guess that answers my questions too. SG1 it is.

@yrwei52 Thanks man! Good info. As far as I know the hardware on the 2015 is the same as the 2016, right? So it would make sense to use SG1 instead of 80w90?

Next maintenance item for my 2015 CX5 GT is rear diff and transfer case fluid changes. The manual states they take a readily-available (and cheap) 80w90 GL5 gear oil but then in 2016 Mazda spec'd their SG1 Hypoid Gear Oil...but am I supposed to use this in lieu of 80w90 or is the SG1 only...

@Jmaz Great info. Thanks for all of that. Crazy you had issues at 60k. So I don’t have anything that’s torn. Overall the boots on everything look really good given the age of the vehicle. Took it out tonight for an extensive test drive. Definitely clunking coming from the offending passenger...

@yrwei52 My rear LCAs are fine. This is solely about the front LCAs. The bushings that are torn are the larger rearward positioned bushings on the FRONT. Sorry for the confusion. My wife drives this (along with our kid) so safety is always top of mind. I think seeing some of these catastrophic...