From what I've read, those LCAs are very difficult to change.
Maybe it will get worse and then be easier to find what is causing the clunk.
It seems like I've read all kinds of things that can cause a clunk... shock mounts, various nuts and bolts that need to be retorqued, things that are hard...
I got a pair from Autozone for my '86 626 Sedan because of a damaged boot, probably around 150k miles. I wasn't driving many miles at the time (<4mi from work) so in retrospect I should have regreased and installed a new boot. The ones from autozone started making more noise ( I moved and was...
I've seen a product consisting of flexible solar panels on the hood, and the cable runs down through the windshield cowl to enter through the door area. I saw it on facebook, but I can't recall the name.
Another place might be where the cables for the trailer lights exit under the rear bumper.
Yeah, if you have an engine that consumes a noticeable amount of oil keeping the sump up the the full mark might be a good idea. Definitely if you are driving 400-500 miles a day in the summer.
Otherwise your engine won't know the oil is only halfway between the marks, although the oil...
I've heard Auto zone has better ones but I wouldn't believe it. Check the local recycling places if you can find low mileage axles they might be better. OEM is probably the best.
How many more miles do you want to drive on this car?
How often do you turn all the way to the left?
I believe I've read it is similar to the Subaru oil filter, with a higher bypass pressure relief valve. Operation of the engine with a lower pressure valve might let unfiltered oil through.
I think one of the reasons plugs need to be changed is that the metal electrodes erode to the point that the gap is too large to make the electrons jump it, so no spark. Can you tell any difference in the size of the gap between the two plugs?
In the text below the youtube video it has directions on how to determine if you need a higher viscocity oil than what the manufacturer recommends, but by the time you made the determination you would have over 30,000 miles on the vehicle.
Is it really that big a deal? I use 5w-30 ... it's...
You should change the oil approximately every 5k miles, or once a year. Making sure all of the important fluids are present, including air in the tires, can take you quite a ways.
Do you know much about the history of the car, how it was used and maintained?
There was a period when Mazda was...
Who changed the battery recently?
I didn't lose the radio stations on mine when I changed the battery. I believe I had to have the driver side door window 're-learn' the 'auto- up/down' function. At the time my DRL lighting was set to 'auto-on'-- the factory default, so I don't know about...
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I'm not so sure I'd consider my Skyactive completely 'clean-running,;'. It seems like they have a fair amount of soot in the oil for the miles... possibly because they are direct-injected.
Subarus and Mazdas both are said to have higher oil pressures in normal operation. Maybe that's why...
It looks like your decision is all about the numbers now... how much do you have in it? how much to fix? how much to replace? how much inconvenience can you tolerate? etc.
Would the dealer make you a good deal on a trade?
I think there was an STB for the 2016 EPB calipers. I had to clean and relube mine (the guide pins) and haven't had any more problems. If yours are at least wearing evenly that's a good sign, but the blinking lights could be the warning of something actually failing.
I guess you could remove...
I've read you can remove deposits on the rotors with abrasives, like steel wool, maybe sandpaper.
I think the deposits occur because of hard stopping, especially with new pads.
"Underneath the bonnet, the all-new CX-5 is powered by a 2.5-litre e-Skyactiv G 141ps petrol engine, paired with 24V Mazda M Hybrid technology with a brake-by-wire system, replacing the previous 2.0-litre base unit. This engine delivers confident performance with improved torque for quicker...