Just wondering. Does your Mazda6 has the iEloop system?
GT has it. Not sure about yours.
If yes, the problem gets more complex.
Any codes/errors on the dash?
If not battery (which OP replaced), it could be the BCM.
(body control module) It is listed as #3.
BCM is the control center for these non-engine features.
My guess, of course.
Once is a while, you need to take your vehicle out for an exercise.
Not kidding. Rev it up to at least 4k or 5k safely.
If you keep babying the car, the transmission gets lazy.... thanks to transmission's grade logic that learns from your driving.
$1603 at Mazdaswag.com
https://www.mazdaswag.com/oem-parts/mazda-distance-sensor-kd7j67xa1k?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9ZWxlY3RyaWNhbC1jb21wb25lbnRzJmw9MSZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPW1hemRhJm89Y3gtNSZ5PTIwMjAmdD1ncmFuZC10b3VyaW5nJmU9Mi01bC1sNC1nYXM%3D
Expensive, indeed.
I've no answer to your question. Sorry...
My '17 GT has been solid except for the belt tensioner seepage. Short drives mostly. 55k miles.
GPS SD card went bad. Replaced easily.
I agree. Both are good choices.
BTW, I believe '17 is slower due to being heavier from extra noise mitigating materials.
If you don't care about tranquility...
My guess is that when that 1st guy put the chain back on, the timing was off.
Usually, people put down markings before they remove the chain... so that timing remains the same when the chain is put back on.
If so, you need to bring it to people who can adjust timing.
Or/And, P0017 is about oil...
To debug this, divide-n-conquer.
Put your CX5 in Park. Rev the engine to see if you can reproduce the noise.
if not, it is the moving parts.. drive shaft, (incl. heat shield contacting it).
If yes, it could be engine mount, or tensioner slipping.
I don't like what I see in the spy photo.
The front end styling looks dated.
The wheels look like Mazda's, but what else?
The side mirrors don't look like Mazda's.
The design around the grille doesn't look Mazda to me.
I like CX5 so much that I got two in my house... :)
Mazda has the best overall packages among all Japanese brands in my opinion.
Reliability might not be the best but still top notch.
Side bar here.
Went to Costco last Sunday. Costco allowed a 3rd party to sell a service to create a 2nd fob on site. There was a van outside to do the service.
I am sure you will not get a OE Mazda fob.
The saleslady said:
1. about $200+ for Mazda.
2. new fob (not OE).
3. cost includes...
Here in SF Bay Area, drain-n-refill ATF used to cost about $200.
A couple yrs ago, it was about $250.
Now, maybe $300 with inflation. (oil change was $49, now $99 for comparison)
Anyway, $410 seems high even with SF Bay Area high prices.
Check other dealers or indie shops, I would suggest...
Should be in OM (Owner's manual). You can find one online if you don't own one... a digital version.
Avoid doing flushing. Just drain-n-refill.
Clean up the pan (debris near magnets). Replace the seal if you have it.
I agree with wlong01.
I had the cloth seats of my '05 Prius (leather seat not available back then) upholstered with leather seat covers I bought from eBay. It worked well for the 7-8 yrs I owned it.
You reminded me that I still have a full body kit for my '16 Mazda6 GT ($400+ I spent on it). It is still sitting in my garage.
My wife takes every chance to remind of its existence....