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A little hard to understand, I'm glad that a 5 qt jug seems to be close enough, which is very convenient.

I bought some Quaker State High MIleage Full Synthetic on sale at Walmart for $20+, but they also had some Pennzoil "FULL SYNTHETIC" . They don't mention on the bottle if the lower priced FULL SYNTHETIC is also produced from natural gas. I prefer the Pennzoil for my Mazda, but I buy whatever...

All of those other codes, Cylinder 3, ECM, ABS, cruise control, etc., make this sound like one of those 'bad battery' issues. How old is the battery?

I think the coolant they supplied at the factory was sub-par, with less anti-corrosion additives than necessary.

What year is the CX5? repairing might be possible but replacing might be easier, and if you need new calipers anyway that's the way I might go.

If it seems too difficult to remove the passenger door panel maybe start with the driver's door panel, maybe it has some control over the others. Does the child protection apparatus affect just the passenger doors?

There is an issue here. You might need to change the core, there are Youtubes on how to do this without removing the entire unit, but you have to procure the small heat exchanger that fits in the unit. Backflushing might not work because corrosion has built up inside the pipes.

If you clear the codes do they come back? It seems like the electronics can be pretty sensitive to a failing battery.

Did you measure any runout or out of round on the rotors? They look rusty. I bet replacing parts is a good idea considering the obvious rust. Plus the sticky calipers and guide pins. I lubed mine because of sticking a few years back and I haven't noticed any problems. I found if I loosened both...

SBMongoos said: I have Continental Cross Contact LX25s. Before long I'm going to have to replace them. Been happy with them. Is this still the way to go? I always like to check in and see if there's a better option. I'm seeing the Michelin Cross-Climate 2 on cars a lot. But I...

Are the valve stem seals defective?

Right, it might be worth buying the fluid from Mazda and supplying the independant mechanic if necessary.

It seems to depend on the vehicle. I usually look for the low teens for idle, mid-twenties to thirties cruising. Accelerating it will be in the 30's-50's. There are times when I have the pedal down a bit, maybe halfway, and the TPS jumps from the 50's to 91 on it's own, possibly for efficiency...

Go for it!

TPS is throttle position sensor.

I don't think there are many items that normally need attention until the mileage is higher, 75kmi for the plugs, for example. The coolant is good for at least 10 years. How are the tires?

I think there is a body control unit. maybe there is a problem there. . Even if you leave a door ajar, the lights will eventually turn off (about 20 mintues). If you lock the car do the lights 'fade' in the normal way?

The same situation I have... I change it when it's convenient. I use good oil and I don't believe it suddenly goes bad in exactly a year.

It won't last long with coolant in the oil, it's really bad for the bearings.

A little squirt of Windex, which has a lot of ammonia, should neutralize the acid if there is any on the cable ends.