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OBX is fine, I've got 130,000 miles on mine trouble free. AWR might still make them, they cost double what a OBX costs and has fitment/clearance issues.

224K and I'm still on my original T-stat. Sounds more like the rad failed from something.

When I changed my belt at 209K, the WP was fine, but I replaced it anyway-With an aftermarket one. We'll see how that does.

There are a certain number of cycles the ECU has to go through before it will be "ready". Most code scanners have a "state test" or something that will tell you if it will pass or not. If it fails again, get it scanned by someone who has a clue.

Rolled over 224K yesterday, and found that my windshield has a nice new crack completely across the bottom of it. It's getting to be time to retire the p5. At least i'll be rocking a E36 instead!

In FL, Broward county. Speeds in excess of 120mph! (drive)

Wierd, I did 209K on my original belt. Whenever I have broken a belt I test the motor for damage. Pretty simple tests, just need a compression test kit. Or I just toss a belt on it and see if it runs. Live and learn. Least you have a spare motor to play with!

The calipers could be bad, might just need to be lubed up. The rotors rust up pretty quick and will stick to the pads. Best thing to do is check everything out.

224K on mine, doesn't burn or leak any oil. And I have beat this car hard. And I have done 7-10K oil changes with mobil1 synthetic since I bought it.

Do you have a cold air intake? I normally drop near 5mpg just because of the temp changes. I made a hot air intake for the winter, and I can keep my milage up.

Cons: I can't stand the stock motor mounts. Milage is somewhat annoying. My turbo stang made more than twice the HP and got the same milage. Pricey parts. My BMW is cheaper to maintain. Pros: As for the motor, VTCS removal and a header wakes it up. And I don't know many heaps of s*** engines...

WTF!!!! (puke) Saw it across the street from the Capitol Building (in DC) blue 03.5 with altezzas and wrong badging.

(lol2) It's very common for sensors to drift with age and not throw a code. Checking the voltage on the sensors is how you test any sensor. A shop manual will have the specs and test procedure. I doubt you did any damage to the MAF, I have unplugged and reconnected mine a lot of times. It's fine.

Mine has 218K and pulls great, much better than it was when it was new...loose motors have less drag, therefore less parasitic hp loss. I've been thinking about dynoing it with the high milage

What's high? There are only 5 digits displayed. I rolled over 218K earlier this week (drive)

Hope you didn't overtighten the plugs. They are supposed to be torqued. You can easily destroy the threads. Did you make sure the MAF connector is seated properly? Did you check the coil pack connections and make sure the plug wires are seated properly?

it's also missing the battery hold down...Better get one before you start tossing it around some turns.

New parts do go bad...Parts come loose...Easy enough to check out.

YOU SEEEM VERY EXCITED OR MAYBE HAS BROKEDED KEYBORED> It has been probably been in a wreck. That is a sedan front bumper. And your grille is busted, or just missing the upper part. that one filter is a bad idea... You are also missing one of the best HP/$$ mod on you list of things to do.

Attempted to put gas in and failed. Looks like I need a new gas tank.... also need windshield and bodywork to fix all the rust from the prior replacements of the windshield....And I just dumped 500 buck in brakes...218K... getting to the point where it just doesn't seem worth it.