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That adapter is used because the prongs on an h7 bulb are more narrow than the 9003/h4. Which is the spacing on the wiring plug for the p5. Its like mazda just used same plug for both cars but wired them different? I guess it could also act as a heat sink too. Or be the reason p5 s use so many...

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/index.php?threads/2002-p5-roof-rack.123865375/ Try this post but I am still looking for another one I remember with good pics.

No. The runners stay on the roof and use those specific caps to cover the holes where crossbars attached. Getting delete strips removes the runners and leaves the roof flat. That process requires dropping the headliner to get to the nuts/bolts holding the runners/ delete strips to the roof...

1st remove the screws you see where the cross bars attach. That will allow you to pop the top covers off. Then youll see the bolts that hold the bars to the runners/roof. Remove those bolts and lift the cross bars off. There are specific delete caps that cover where the cross bars attached...

Removing the rack from the runners? Or removing the runners and installing the delete strips?

While I agree with DiamondDave's statement I will add that that is more evident on something lowered more than 1.5". The H techs are like 1" and are far less susceptible to premature wear. Most likely theyre just stiff from everything being new. Give it a few hundred miles and itll soften up a bit.

I did something similar a few months ago to my sisters talon. It had sat for 4 years with a broken timing belt. After 4 years she decided it was time to get it running again. Changing the coolant was done here out of necessity not because it sat. I put a new battery in it and the fuel gauge said...

Stock sway bushing are rubber and can dry out. But usually they dont require regular lubrication. The progress bushings are urethane and require a lube as they do dry up and will make noise. The enviromnent in which you live will determine how often they need lube. Also, using stock endlinks...

This bar makes a huge improvement in cornering. I installed it using the supplied lube and it was noise free for like 4 or 5 years. I had a clunking endlink around that time and replaced those with the beefier moogs (K80868) that also have a zerk fitting and at that time re lubbed the bushing...

The rear hubs are pretty easy to swap. The front bearings kinda suck but redoing them and axles should give you piece of mind for many years. I find sil-glide from napa works great on the brake slider pins for very long time and prevents the siezing issue. If its the piston sticking in caliper...

Just did this for my sister. She picked up a 2005 mazda3 and the halogens were terrible. Cleaning the headlights and even using the cerakote headlight kit made minimal difference in the output. The lenses looked almost brand new after this. Thats when we rolled the dice on the Hikari brand led...

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/index.php?threads/the-non-fouler-trick-to-fix-p0421-for-noobs-by-a-noob.123780694/ Hopefully this helps with the p421 How does it run now that the misfire is fixed? Any smoother?

+1 on the progress bar. Properly lubed on install and relubed every couple years and it has been noise free. Also love the ability to use factory end links.

301 code usually fixed with plugs, coils, and wires. 421 code usually points to a bad catalytic converter. If you dont have emissions testing you can use a nonfouler to space the 2nd 02 sensor out and that should stop that code. 325 the knock sensor is just above the oil filter and if you see a...

You shouldn't need camber bolts with the tein h techs. I've got eibachs and didnt need them.

Id say start with the tune up and fluid and filter for both engine and trans. Cleaning the maf and check that all the couplers are tight and not cracked. Carb cleaner sprayed around vacuum hoses will identify and leaks as the idle will change when it gets sucked in. Be wary of flushing the...

I believe the camber has some adjustment in how the upper strut mounts are positioned. However, the actual bolts from strut to control arms arent the adjustable camber type.

Specific codes would be best. Lots of people here willing to help but no one would suggest just throwing $$ at generalizations. Also, when was the last tune up? plugs, coils, fuel pump and filter? hows the tranny fluid look? This could narrow things down along with the codes

CR3 motorsports for lower tie bar and possible front upper strut brace and progress rear sway. Ebay search megan racing mx-6 rear strut brace. Good luck with a ladder bar, rear subframe support and bracing as gt spec and kmr no longer make them.

I did the morimoto h1 mini retrofit in mine with HID back in 2010. Just had a ballast fail a couple months ago. And I drive alot at night/ early morning. For the money - and 1 day of work - the light increase and reliability is totally worth it. Ive got some Hikari LED from Amazon in my other...