I guess it depends upon where you live and drive. I take speed bumps at a slight angle, just as I do driveways and have no problem. I do love the razor-sharp steering and cornering that come with a combination of lowering springs (Eibach) and shocks (Konis). Ride stiffness is a bit greater but...
I think the radar cruise in my 3 is excellent but despite the somewhat tiring little steering corrections needed during trips of more than 30 minutes, I am okay with it, as my trips are mostly less than 30 minutes each. I have read that new Mazdas have less sensitive steering to alleviate that...
I think that after only 3 years of ownership, even if the odometer number is beyond the factory warranty, Mazda should pay for at least half of the bill for a new trans. Some manufacturer's dealerships will install a factory refurbished (with new upgraded components) at a good discount. If the...
There was a time when the first dealership I took my 89 MX6 GT to couldn't figure out what was wrong so I took it to one with a better mechanic. That guy had no problem diagnosing and fixing the issue.
So my advice is to take it to a different dealership. Your warranty is good at any Mazda...
Remember that as cars age (typically beyond the 20 year mark) gaskets and other types of seals start leaking. At this point, mileage isn't the determining factor as to how reliable the car will be.
Case in point: I sold my 1989 MX6 GT Turbo when it was 25 years old because the cost to replace...
One of the things many folks fail to realize is that 90% of any "sport" advantages expensive German vehicles have over some above average Japanese vehicles like some Mazdas and Lexus vehicles tend to fade away when driving to work, getting stuck in rush hour traffic and driving at or slightly...
I agree with Carpe Diem and Ed but I think most of us are assuming that the dealership used OEM brake pads which should not squeak. Some aftermarket pads, especially those for occasional track use will squeak even if all clips and grease are applied directly.
Here is an often recommended...
I've spoken to more than a few people who are mesmerized by brand names. A good example is Tesla. Consumer Reports rates then 25 out of 26 on CR's list of most to least reliable brands.
Yet somehow people neglect reliability if their friends, coworkers, and family are ignorant of this aspect...
How did they determine that the starter is okay? Typically you would remove the starter before bench-testing it. Some people will tap the starter solenoid with a hammer to see if that frees it sufficiently so that it will start.
I agree with Silly Wabbit: Based upon your photos, it looks like the angle of the shock is preventing any sliding off of the threaded bolt. I think you must get the bolt to be parallel with the shock mount hole.
Are you looking at privately owned cars? If so, I recommend conducting a phone interview, first. Ask the owner if he or she has maintenance service receipts or a historical list of what was done over the years. Try to get ahold of a list of a maintenance requirement schedule for that year...
For street driving it's not the horsepower, it's the torque that is most important. In this regard, Mazda came up with a gem.
They did the same thing with my old 1989 MX6 GT Turbo. It had only 145 HP but 190 lb-ft of torque which was very impressive at that time for a 2.2 liter 4-banger engine...