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That's what they all say, until a few days later when they want/need the sale. Just nit picking with ya, lol. I just know their games all too well. Anyways, either way, I knew there was a better deal out there for ya, was just hoping you could solidify one that was much much better, and I think...

Maybe try to see if you can get that $565 savings to a $1k at least and tell them you'll be on your way to pick it up as you're serious? Anyways, I wouldn't give in just yet, they'll come off a little more.

Looks awesome man, and I know it sounds great! I think 93 octane would put both gains in the teens easily. Good job, again, and enjoy it, it really is a nice touch.

There's a dealer or two in NC that will give just about anyone who knows well enough to ask 10%. Most people impulse buy cars, though, so they never get anywhere near the best deal possible.

I email all within 8 hours, and I drive back with an incredible deal.

Lmao! Yea, my number one goal is to make sure the dealer is happy when buying a car. Couldn't care less if they hate me, I want the best price and the best price only. Let them **** someone else like I know they will and are hoping to do.

Truecar is worthless garbage.

That's what I plan to pay. I got it before, and I'll do it again. Roughly 15% dealer discount I negotiated, and 4+% rebates for a total of 19%.

No way to know without seeing the selling price as nobody knows your tax rate and fees, so OTD means nothing without a full breakdown.

No reason at all to stop using it. Only reason I did was to save money. Using Penn Platinum like a lot of folks here, but the Castrol Edge, Mobil1, and even Rotella truck will do you just as good if you chose to go that route. I do continue to use the OEM filter, and will always do so.

I dont count a $1k rebate towards the dealer discount as they get that money straight back from Mazda or wherever. 7% has been gotten by just about everyone without any rebates. If you can get it, fine, but I never pay less than 10%. YMMV.

$700-1500 for sure. Maybe even more if you catch the right dealer and with the 2020s a coming shortly.

I think you left plenty of money on the table. I also think you can possibly back out of the deal because you haven't taken possession of the car, therefore the contract hasn't been fully executed. Personally, I'd be down there today voiding it. Good luck ,and enjoy your new CX-5 when you get it.

Don*t mind him, he*s clueless! A sig with a turbo and exhaust is a great start to adding more power, and it will sound fabulous. Racing Beat products have been backed by Mazda engineers for 40+ years.

It should've never been introduced in the first place, so I guess this is a little step in the right direction, but not really. You can keep the start/stop BS too. Please don't bring that here as well, or as a replacement.

It varies by the state you reside in here. Mine were $300 (now been raised to a $500 max sales tax), but some states are percentages that equal several thousands.

The best prices are in Va and NC, and got a good price in Delaware too. Some of the top dealerships in VA also have dealerships in MD too, so it can be done there as well. My next purchase will most likely be in NC, or VA, and no one is coming close to the prices Ive seen. YMMV, but no way I...

Yep yep. So we dont understand science, but glad we understand finance! Lmao.

Agree. Showroom buying is for suckers. Email is your friend. Use it wisely.

I don't think you do at all. It over revs to pull hills, and starts the pull later than it should. I time the hills, and CC can't come close to the mileage I get. Granted, this is without ACC, but I'm also one of those who couldn't care less about CC. I use it once in a blue moon, if that.