Factory lasted 8 to 9 yrs. Probably less, since my clunky stabilizer links hit the issue. I'd say $70 + $70 and $200 labor (that's what mechanic quoted me) and if lasts 4 yrs, I'll still be okay.
3 days worth of PB Blaster and Benzomatic, etc. was used to release few bolts on my 2016 Mazda 3 weeks ago.
Met a guy who works in Newark Airport and he suggested I instead try
Kroil Original Penetrating Oil
Boy oh boy - this thing really works. My passenger side was worse and I was putting...
Yeah I get it. But lowest I found was $250 a pop. Dealer price was + $310 here. Sorry - but can't simply afford that much. Delphi was $70. I checked around - folks said very decent quality.
2016 2.5 GT AWD - confirmed control arm bushings - gone.
The OEM control arms (front - left/right) are just too expensive.
Any thoughts on Delphi?
Delphi TC7800
Delphi TC7801
Exact same as OP described. Fixed by replacing the stabilizer links. Clunk remained and then replaced the bushings too. Went away. An auto body shop told me - always when changing links change the bushings too. Paid labor twice, lesson learned.
1 thing: thank you all! Really. For I was planning to replace my struts thinking its bad. Now I just saved myself quite a big chunk of $$.
I just feel perhaps this exercise should be done by all who change the links. Perhaps not applicable to most but just in case.... I say this since not only...
Oh. All I did was loosen at the top where the links connect and then tighten it back to what somewhere here (in this site) was said : 36 to 40 ft. lb torque. Then repeat at the lower point same thing. Left and right. All the while while the car was in an alignment ramp, all wheels.
As was right...
I completed this finally. It was a real b**** to have the car on a ramp and go underneath and do it. Finally was able to.
Net result: Noticeable improvement in 2 areas:
1. Steering wheel turning : smoother by a lot.
2. Noticeable feel in driving down the same roads -> bumps, etc. are still...
That is only true if the bar is at its neutral rotational position at ride height.
That condition I think here is being assumed, not guaranteed.
The sway bar is:
Not keyed
Not splined
Not indexed to the chassis
Its neutral position is defined by installation, not design.
Even with rubber...
@N7turbo
A sway bar system has three variables, not one:
Link length (fixed)
Control arm position (changes with ride height)
Sway bar rotational position in the chassis (not indexed)
Even with a fixed-length link:
If you connect both ends while the suspension is drooped
You define the sway...
Recently got the front axle links replaced consequent to a diagnosed clunking sound. Sound is now gone. 3 weeks driving however distinctly feel the car got worse. Every bump, potholes - everything I am feeling now, while driving. Even the car is rolling more I think. To eliminate few things -...
Very good point and considering you have real experience post change, probably first I'll do the 3 things mechanic recommended I do. He's nice that way. Tells me "don't bother me, unless there's a real issue, save your $" type.
Used to +10 yrs ago. Now - no more.My M+S (Snow peak rated tires) handle North east snow perfectly fine. I think it was last or maybe earlier I posted here even how they managed with +6 inches snow effortlessly. Last year I had an emergency and had to drive at +70 mph thru snow baked roads (not...
Gotcha. However - the issue I have as described is with steering being more stiff than usual, nose of car bobbing a bit (I think). Probably struts may be fine but was thinking the bearings, mounts and bumper may be a problem.