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Don’t expect a step change in brake performance if you change to these bigger calipers and discs. The main reason Mazda have made that change is to get a bigger surface area and improve pad life. To get more power you need to go up in diameter and that is restricted by the wheel. You’d have...

The last thing I need to know is the name of the lovely street in the lovely town 🙄

Keep in mind that fully synthetic oil has the ability to cling to all surfaces and is really low viscosity so until the piston rings bed in (can be a long time before they do because the oil is so good - catch 22) then I wouldn’t worry. They usually settle down to next to nothing by about 10000...

The CX5 is smart in that the exterior lights and the instrument lights will dim down automatically. At one time, most cars dimmed the instruments together which was all well and good but if you turn on the headlights in a rain storm you could barely read any instrument displays. as above...

From last week we can build one in the UK. I’m not however convinced that the machinery in Japan is churning the hardware out thanks to covid and silicon chips. What I will say about the new “cleaned up front end”, it looks easier to wash. https://www.mazda.co.uk/configurator/MAZDA%20CX-5/5WGN/

I’ll tell you better when it comes but I’m indifferent to the exterior changes. The front fog lights were only really any good as marker lights. The new seats and the noise improvements are more interesting to me.

They’ve recently re mapped the ABS to be more sensitive to a spinning wheel with the addition of an “off road” switch. This guy reckons it’s effective. https://youtu.be/x32gMsxM_5o

It will run the list of checks. It’s really saying “these may not work as expected”.

Yes do the spark plugs but I wouldn’t touch the injectors unless they’re playing up. There are some very good additives that will do the injectors good.

Oxygen sensors, mass airflow meters and MAP sensors are common culprits. Broken chains are often terminal.

Yes, chain although I doubt it’s related to the warning lights and limp mode. You can buy a code reader very cheap of eBay or Amazon these days. Often cancelling the code solves it.

I suppose you could rig up a power supply to the control solenoid but Mazda wouldn’t approve of it because they use the breakaway torque to limit the load on that diff. Overload it at your peril. They are expensive!

It’s a japanese idea that many others have followed. The motor used to be right inside the heater and the heater is right inside the dashboard so it was hours of a job to get at the only potentially wearing part. Just moving it over to the passenger footwell was the most radical change and...

Err, let me put it a different way. If your car has front and rear disc brakes (rear drum brakes are slightly different) now imagine there is no vacuum servo to help you press the pedal. You can’t ordinarily compress a fluid so the only play should be the small amount at the top of the pedal...

I’ve noticed there are a few people struggling to get an accurate measurement on the dipstick. Mazda used ultra smooth stainless steel and the oil won’t stick to it. Get some fine wire wool and take the shine off the bottom three inches or so and it should be fine.

To test, make sure you pump it several times with the engine off to full exhaust that vacuum in the servo 😉

What fuel are you using in this vehicle?

What fuel do you use in these errant vehicles?

Can you show a photo?

Just looked at the UK interior mirror and it’s about $170 plus tax but I think the only difference is you get the Homelink buttons.