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WestMichJim what year is your vehicle? The transfer case in the new generation is very different I'm sure from the old Ford based units that take 140/70 gear oil not ATF.

If it's a shifter problem try starting when in neutral as well and see if that works. If it does, it's the switch in the shifter. To jump the starter you would need to find the starter relay in the fuse box and jump it. They make relay test tools that allow you to do that, or you can use jumper...

You need to bleed the entire system. It sounds like you have more air in that system than can be 'compressed' by whatever fluid is in there. The procedure is normally to start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way forward. Rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger...

Are you using a pressure bleeder or the old pump-and-hold method? I'd suggest a good pressure bleed to be 100% sure that fluid is flowing at each of the calipers. If you have done that already it's hard to figure what else is going on given the description of your symptoms.

Even my older 2012 has some odd behavior with regard to locking and unlocking doors. It's annoying but I am used to it now. For example, with the drivers door open you cannot unlock the rest of the doors, not sure why but there you go.

Be careful, that will ruin your credit. Just a heads-up in case that matters to you.

I took a quick look at the 20's on Tirerack for that vehicle and each one clearly states 45MM offset in the description.

Try looking for aftermarket wheels on TireRack and they should have the specs that you are looking for.

They are often referred to as puddle lights.

If you cannot reach the lines from above blow it out from below with the fan removed. It's not hard to remove the fan and if there is something in there you could spot it in the hole where the fan usually sits?

Hold the pedal at the bottom of travel with even pressure for a few minutes. If it stays in place at that point you should be OK. If you have air in the system it would not be uncommon for the pedal to sink to the floor. I 'think' you may be OK. As I said prior, this vehicle does not have the...

Did the installer completely pressure bleed the brake system? It really should be done whenever a brake system is 'opened'. You may have some air in the lines and that will give you a softer pedal. I'll also say that I was never impressed with the brakes in my 2012. This is the first vehicle I...

The ignition switch could be worn out at this point? The lights come on regardless once you reach the run position, it's the start that could be giving you issues. Given that it eventually does start it would seem that all the other components down the line are OK once they get the signal.

After you remove both plugs and loose whatever drains out you need to put both back and pump in, or top fill, the unit with what you removed plus a bit more. Start the vehicle, run it through the gears and monitor the transmission temp. When it gets close to 100 degrees F remove the large plug...

I would not use any engine additives particularly since you have gone this long without them. That oil you mentioned is European Spec if you're using it in a Q5 so again I'd just stick with what the original spec calls for. Injector cleaner is a pretty good idea and I use it myself, Techron...

It is time for a second and third opinion if needed. On Rockauto you can find a lot of exhaust parts for the vehicle for a lot less than whatever quote you have. I agree that if sensors are needed, go OEM quality; otherwise, it's just pipes.

The blower motor is not hard to access so a visual inspection may make it very apparent if there is damage to the motor. Have you checked the drains on the motor case? I have heard it is not uncommon for them to clog up and end up causing some damage to the blower motor. Take a look and drop...

Agreed that it has something to do with the booster work. I had mine replaced in my 2012 under the recall here in the U.S. but didn't have any issues afterward. I'd have them take a close look at the brake pedal switch it certainly sounds like something got bent or put in improperly when they...

I use the transfer pump about 1/2 hour after driving so the oil is still very warm. I never had any issues about residue in the engine on any of the vehicles I have when done this way. I do not recommend trying it on a cold engine. I insert the thin tube all the way until I feel it hit the...

If it is not leaking get a topsider or fluid transfer pump at Harbor Freight. I have used that method on several of my European cars that call for pumping out through the dipstick and decided to try it on my 2012 CX9. It works very well and get's all the oil out without needing to remove the...