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So was my 3. I just recently had it in for the i-ELOOP battery change. They suggested a throttle body flush but at 30,000 miles, I didn't think that was necessary. They did not find any seepage.

My first replacement was in 2019 at 5 years of age, but the replacement one lasted only 3 years. The good news is that there should be that warning light which means you are risking having a no-start condition if you wait too long. If you do have to get a jump start, make sure the I-ELOOP light...

What part of the country do you live in? Is that the infotainment screen? Wide temperature cycles could do something like that. I use a windshield cover when my car is left out in the sun for a while on a hot, sunny day. Check the part numbers of the 2014-2016 units and that of the 2018. The...

My sister sold an early 80s Mazda (GLC?) with over 300,000 miles on it and was still running great. One of the reasons more 300K+ Japanese vehicles are not still on the street is the length of time factor. Once a vehicle reaches a certain age, gaskets tend to start leaking. Some gasket...

Yes, it is a deep-cycle battery that works with the i-ELOOP super capacitor to power steering and other electrical motors. Gas mileage is better than Mazdas without this system. I think Mazda used the system from 2014-2016 model years for their high-end models. Some people have used deep cycle...

A couple of weeks ago, the orange triangle with exclamation mark in center popped up on the dash. Using the infotainment system display, I found the issue description to be "i-ELOOP System Malfunction". The dealership found that the (slightly more than) 3 year-old battery was near total failure...

I bought and will use the Costco brand synthetic, also. It appears to meet or exceed all oil requirements for Mazda. I typically use K&N oil filters. Up first: 2014 Mazda 3 SGT (0W-20) Next: 2008 MX5 (5W-20)

Did you call the previous owner or car lot salesperson?

I would call the place from whom you bought the car and ask them to explain why the odometer reading is so low. Most cars are advertised with the odometer reading. 300 miles would be a red flag to me, so that may be why they didn't include it in their advertisement. On the other hand, you could...

That seems to indicate an interference of some kind - not normal at all, in my opinion.

Diesels are not exactly in demand for vehicles other than some trucks. I don't blame Mazda. The VW-gate fiasco destroyed many consumers' trust in diesel fuel technology.

Generally speaking, a half quart extra will not harm anything. I typically put in 5 quarts if the manual calls for 4.75 quarts with oil filter.

I recall in 2010 or so when Car & Driver first tested a Skyactive engine, the writer commented that the tapping noise sounded like a quieter diesel engine. I noticed the same when I bought my 2014 3S 2.5 but remembered the C&D review and though nothing of it. My car now has 30,000 miles on it.

I would ask them if they could install the Bose system (assuming they will receive these units from Mazda) after they arrive. If they will not, then yes you should definitely receive a refund for the difference in sound package cost.

I believe I've read 0-60 in 5.8 seconds - not bad compared to 7 seconds for the non-turbo. If you get lighter wheels, that should lower your time a bit. I saved almost 10lbs per wheel by going with Enkei Racing wheels. (just a bit over 17 lbs vs. 27 lbs each for the factory 18-inch wheels)

Here is a handy quick reference guide to reliability among auto manufacturers. While Japanese companies tend to dominate, there are three that are consistently better than the others: Lexus, Mazda, and Toyota. I tend to choose among these when buying a vehicle.

Congrats!👍

I'll bet if I were to drive your car I'd be able to feel the sidewall flex. ;)Really, most average drivers would not be able tell. I tend to be a bit more aggressive than most, while still staying safe. None of my tires have more than a 45 aspect ratio but when I had my 1989 Mazda MX6 GT Turbo...

I wonder if the rear window will need to be resealed. That would definitely be a dealership task. Do you have a mechanic's stethoscope? That may help narrow down where the noise is emanating from but if it's the window itself, it may need to be removed and resealed.