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Many years ago, a guy at work was selling his Toyota Corona, so I told him my mother was interested. When she took it to the DMV inspection site, they told her that the underbody rust was making the car unsafe. The owner refunded the $500. It was a shame because the powertrain was in excellent...

Yes, if you haven't, already, plug in an OBD II reader and see what the code is. Then look it up.

Is there an AC belt? It could also be related to a pulley or compressor bearing. I bought a mechanic's stethoscope from Harbor Freight. It can come in handy when trying to pinpoint noises in the engine bay. If it has something to do with the exhaust or something else under the car, it may be...

Take a look at this web page. https://www.samarins.com/diagnose/why-car-will-not-start-in-park.html Under "Testing", there is a photo of a Mazda linkage that had to be lubricated in order to function correctly.

Often, a "casting problem" is one or more voids in the material. I used to work for a company that had stainless steel brake rotors made by investment casting. To check for voids, I bought an ultrasonic tester. We would check each rotor before sending it out for machining.

I thought I read somewhere that the i-ELOOP battery is a deep-cycle battery. If so, a simple AGM battery may not last long.

Do you have the tools for manually moving the top? I agree that it is puzzling why it would go all the way down when you put the top up, but not when it goes down. I've never had this happen to my MX.

Hopefully, that won't pop up again. That's quite a few miles on that Mazda 3, I guess something is bound to wear out after 15 years.

It sounds a bit like something related to the brakes, when there is an interference with every revolution of the wheel.

Here's some good information...

Take it to an Auto Electric Shop. They will find and fix the issue.

I still have my 2014 3 after almost 9 years. It has less than 35,000 miles on it an has been perfect except for one incidence when I left the car, uncovered in mid-Summer sun for hours. Upon startup, the infotainment screen didn't turn on until I restarted the engine. Now I have a windshield...

So can a failing battery

You are correct. However, I would much prefer a 70-120 MPH time. Anyone who does a 0-60 "drag" on the street is asking to get a reckless driving ticket. Yes, you could get the same on the highway, but the exhaust sound level should be lower.

That's a coincidence. My mother smoked for more than 50 years and died of a burst abdominal aneurysm. She passed at age 75. She also smoked during pregnancy. All you can do is advise and hope they listen. It looks like heredity was a partial cause of your health issues. Most of the time, high...

Car & Driver writer, David Bedard, described the Mazda CX-50 as the "Macan of mainstream SUVs that feels like it was developed on twisty roads." Now that's a great compliment! Mazda knows how to inject great handling into their vehicles.

Yes, but the brand's overall reliability has always been "better-than-average", whereas BMW's has been average or below average. Their overall ratings by Consumer Reports are excellent because of their performance/ride/handling/braking attributes. Less than good relability does weigh them down.

Car and driver has always achieved the best 0-60 times because their test is actually very close to 0-60 with no rollout. They have added a 5-60 MPH time and publish both. Mid, rear engine, and all- wheel drive vehicles have an advantage with 0-60 times, all other things being equal.

Certainly, there are some conditions that are hereditary or acquired by bad habits. My cholesterol levels are slightly higher than normal, no matter how well I eat. Therefore, there's no way I can be drug-free, at if you need to take only one or two prescription drugs, and you are in your...

So does anyone think the reliability of these cars will be identical past the warranty period?