There's an adjuster on the rear suspension (2016 at least).. if the back end drops due to heavy load, the headlights aim downward to compensate. With lowering, it doesn't know the front is lowered too so the headlights point a bit downward; mine did a little with the H&Rs. Just enough to be a...
tibimakai,
Have you adjusted your headlights? I imagine they're pointing down quite a bit. Mine did a bit with the H&R springs. I tried adjusting the headlights with the screw on the back but it didn't seem to help much. Guess if there was a way to adjust that headlight lever on the rear...
They should be able to do a lot... it's just how much $$ they want to put into it. It's amazing what they have done to sportbikes in the last few years; traction, yaw, angle, how high the front tire is allowed to come off the ground, certain amount of sliding (drifting)... clutchless up/down...
Doh! I see it's just a white gear on the backside of the headlight case. Looked at the back of the headlight from further up inside the engine bay. Thought that little hole went inside the headlight fixture. Pretty simple really
I did have them use the cam bolts from Tirerack for the front... Well I'd like some bigger tires in the future so maybe I'll get them a little sooner with the wear;) And put the camber arms on then.
Man, I don't know how you saw down in that little hole... also couldn't feel anything to turn or adjust. Was kind of afraid to poke around to much. From reading, not sure if you used a blade or Phillips on the 2016. Assumed you turned clockwise to raise.
I had the springs put on the other day and the shop was able to get the camber in the green without the camber arms. Hanging on to them should the springs settle more (though they are used springs).
No regrets at all. Looks even better with the H&R springs installed. I've been putting spacers on cars/trucks for over 20 years, never had a problem. I don't go crazy and haven't done anything over about an inch.
Comparing the emissions put out by a power plant making electricity to number of gas cars to make equivalent power is ridiculous. Power plants are way more efficient (especially natural gas) Solar is a power option, but you'll likely make the same argument that the power it takes to create them...
Thanks, I like easy/subtle mods like you've done... have you seen this bulb: daylight it's white, turn signal yellow? Not quite as simple, need the resister kit though
http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/catalog/product/view/id/3165/s/2013-mazda-cx5-front-turn-signal-leds/category/4/
Yeah, I guess it's how bad the roads are where you drive. I don't live in a pot-hole laden, broken asphalt jungle. Its not a big difference on the roads I drive. Of course those Corks Springs are about twice as low as H&Rs
My roads aren't that bad and after reading about the firmness I was a little worried about installing the used H*Rs I got. I installed them last week and was pleasantly surprised with the ride. Can't tell the difference at all on the freeway. Haven't run through any potholes or really broken...
Our roads here may not be the best, but I don't normally drive through pot holes and rough broken pavement. There's sections of asphalt that gets lumpy in brakes zones; drove fine. I can say that I took the whole family out to dinner, cross town and no one noticed a difference. I'm thinking...
Well took to local shop. Seems the brake pads were fine. I couldn't tell the difference in thickness between the new ones I bought and the ones on the car. Kept the stock ones on and now have a set that I hope I remember where I put them by the time I need them. Guess the mechanic at the...
Looking at the other thread about low brake life, I got a feeling there's some pins that allow the pads to move back and forth that are not well lubed from the factory. Bought some ceramic pads and am taking to local shop tomorrow. Will tell them about those pins/lube (putting HR springs on too).