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Issue has been resolved. It appears that there was a step in the manual that I glossed over. Here the steps that worked for me: Ensure the car is fully off. Press on the push-start button twice to place the vehicle in accessory mode. Note: You'll see your touchscreen display and everything on...

If tightening the lug nuts do not resolve your issue, I would probably get a pry bar from Harbor Freight/Home Depot and see if you can pry up on some of the suspension components (e.g. control arms/sway bar end links/tie rod end links) to trace where the noise comes from. It's probably the...

There is a guy on YouTube that seems to have it installed already. The only thing that the SRI seems to be missing so far is the heat shield. https://corksport.com/2022-cx-50-turbo-short-ram-intake-system.html https://youtu.be/KzORyGvLkAk?t=1498 For anyone that has it installed: Do you notice...

Hi, I've had the 2023 CX-50 Turbo Premium for about 2-3 weeks now and to answer your point #1 and #3, here are some things that I don't like about the vehicle so far (in no particular order) and they are somewhat of a personal opinion. I didn't notice some of the items until I started putting...

Hi All, I've had the 2023 Mazda CX-50 Turbo Premium for about 2-3 weeks now and I've noticed that each time I switch off the ignition and then switch it back on, the angle of the mirrors seems to reset each time. It gets a little tedious having to press on the memory 1 position for the mirror...

Hey Felix, Thanks for posting this video. Just out of curiosity, did you run into any issues when removing the rear sway bar bushing bracket bolts/nuts? Based on watching your video, I was wondering if you had to drop the rear subframe or did you just come in from an open angle?

Can one person grab the VAICO filter and one person grab the BECK/ARNLEY? Curious how they'll perform.

Holy moly, I thought I was the only one that had issues getting that little pinch bolt off. I am not sure if your bolt was worse than mine but I heated it a bit with a MAPP torch and gave up as the rubber was starting to burn so I sprayed penetrating fluid on it and kept going at it for about...

I bought brand new bolts for my last pan drop and I typically try to always buy new hardware since my area has road salt every year and I don't know when I'll need to chop off a bolt.

That is good information to know, I'm at 98k at this moment and plan to do my transmission pan drop at around 130k (last one was about 65k). Do you follow up with a torque wrench and then torque the bolts to spec afterwards or do you just snug them up? Not sure if torqueing the bolts to spec...

Woohoo!! Just a few questions: How long have you been running this setup for (miles/years)? How many times have you used the WIX WL10379 setup? Have you experienced any leaks or noticed anything odd?