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Now you are kidding me. What does the intake setup and the opened or closed hood have to do with that noise. I posted a vid before with my car making the same sound, do I have the same mods with andres? No, even if you hitting the rev limiter with neutral the clattering is there. You should...

7200-7300 on the tacho is about 7000 in the datalogs. As you saying, if its air/suction, why you hear it only 300+ rpms over the stock revlimit? As the engine per se(internals), none(afaik). There are minor differences like the exhaust manifold etc.

What do you mean a completely different car? Its an Mazda 2(Demio in japan with the ZY engine). In the video of halfway after hitting the revlimiter he is hitting the clutch, observe the rpms as they go down. An there isnt such a noise. The sound is mechanical, nothing like air rushing etc...

7300 on the tachometer or real rpms? ~7300 on the tacho are about 7000. I said Z6, not ZM. They are related but not the same generation engine ;) ZY(1.5) and Z6(1.6) have identical heads(and depending at the production year they may even have the same camshafts). To sum up, the head(including...

Its not the runners. When I mapped my car(5+ years ago I think) the first time we set the revlimiter @ 7300 and I had the same noise and comes from the valvetrain. If you ever had a valve spring in your hands you will be laughing all day. You can press it until it binds with your bare hands.

Form the noise the engine makes when he changes gear.(I can't explain it, its like blow off valve-ish) (10sec and 20-21sec form the last video) From my experience with ZY + Z6 engines(same head) the limit is 6800-7000 top real rpms(not form the tacho)

You have too much valve floating near the redline. Where have you set the rev limiter?

Νο, fully forged bottom end and 1600cc

After some time I finally got on the dyno. The results impressed me to be honest. On wastegate pressure 0.75bar I got 215whp (242hp + 29kgm of torque on flywheel) and with 1.35bar I got 258whp(283hp on flywheel) with 34kgm of torque Here is the dyno plot at 1.35 bar.(I am requesting this...

5w-30 for all season and 10w-40 for hotter climates.

The photo of the service manual that I uploaded is for the EUDM Mz2. The mechanical parts are the same(EUDM,JDM,USDM), if the EUDM can handle the 75w-90 or a GL-5 API the same applies to the USDM. Maybe because of the different climate they recommend the 75w-80

From the service manual:

In the EUDM mazdas the recommended gear oil is GL-4 or GL-5, 75w-90 for all season oil or 80w-90 for climates that never see under 10C.

Incoming V2. Today I just got on my hands the new custom 3rd gear, Straight cut.

Incoming.... With the clutch configuration(Exedy plate stage 1 and sprung 6-puck 200mm with miata 1.6 flywheel) that I am running I had clutch slipping on fast gear changes. The new setup is 215mm clutch disk 6 puck sprung with an unknown to me pressure plate.It's a valeo but I have no idea...

update. I installed an oil cooler heat exchanger from a subaru forester. Its the big one that subaru uses and the filter now sits just under the oil pan. so i am gonna remove the sandwich plate and I will use the stock oil pressure switch feed for the turbo and the sensors. Also afriend...

The two videos are at different places but both about the same time, ~1 am ;). The road is not flat in both places but at ~1am they are traffic free which is more important.

Haven't got my custom gears back from the machine shop(some personal matters thew me back and I send the gear last month) but I am having fun with the car at low boost. Another Mazda 2(fanisD his nick here) is turboed here with the same setup with me(1.6L Z6 motor, forged bottom, td04l, emanage...

I'm sorry but I did all that just for my fun and it cost me a LOT of time and It's not even close to my job that pays for that sh*t :p