Search results

Two questions: 1. Approx. How many miles are you all getting on the original brakes (pads and rotors)? 2. Are OEM pads and rotors they way to go or can you get same or better quality at a lower price? If so who has the "sweet spot" in aftermarket parts that aren't crap? TIA

I would never say the 2.5 N/A lacked power. (at least at sea level) I found it adequate but it simply had to work harder. The 2.5T transforms the car by giving it a big boost of torque right off of idle for any driving situation. (ex: quick passing on a steep grade)

Be patient. In my experience the buzzing noise totally goes away after about 5k mi. I believe it's injector or fuel pump related but cures itself after break in.

No, last oil change I thought it was at the max. dot but the real level was the min. dot because I read the wrong side of the dipstick. Reading the back side of the dipstick can give an erroneous level unless it's given a loooong drainback period. Moral of the story is to double check the level...

I checked it this morning after sitting all night and both sides of the dipstick now agree using only one pull. Apparently it takes a loooong time for residual oil to drool down into the pan and it seems to like to cling to the back side of the dipstick creating a false high reading. I guess if...

So I go to read the dipstick and it's at the low range. I flip the dipstick 180 degrees and it's a little past full. I wipe it off and repeat and it shows the same thing, and again and again. It appears the face of the dipstick facing forward always reads low and the back side reads high...

I'm the same weight and height and have no issues with the seats. I find the Sig seats just fine but YMMV. I test drove Subarus and absolutely hated the CVT and overall driving experience. They're "grandma-mobiles" vs "drivers cars".

That's for sure. I've hit the button to shut off the car and come back to it hours later with the engine running. You really need to press it fully and then watch the tach drop to zero because it idles so quietly

^^So what's the point of "showcasing" their diesel accomplishment if no one cares. The numbers make no sense, the reviews are mostly negative and there's negligible demand. I doubt the California market will save the model.

Only 23 MPG for the 2.5T?? Mine is averaging 25 MPG and this is combined city/highway and averaged over about 7k mi. I believe others here are seeing about the same. I'm curious why C&D is only seeing 23 MPG unless it's all city stop and go. In any event, the diesel needs to get at least 30...

Diesel's already $.50/gal. higher then reg and according to this article it's poised for another $.65 rise in '20. With a 35% price premium for fuel, a $4k price premium over sticker price and a mere 20% best case MPG increase what's Mazda going to do with this inventory? They're going to need...

...and if something breaks or if the diesel has driveability issues, good luck finding a Mazda tech with training and experience to repair this new diesel engine along with the myriad of emission's systems. Why Mazda wanted to use their precious resources to bring this model to market is...

My $.02 worth. #1. The 2.5T is a wonderful performance upgrade. #2. The interior quality and features (Sig) are one par with luxury CUV's from BMW, Audi, Acura, etc. (but at a significantly cheaper price) If those aren't important, then keep your '17.

#1. Bigger fuel tank!!

That's about right from full until empty. But the effective range is closer to 250 if you start looking for gas at around the 1/4 point. This car needs an 18 gallon tank.

Yep I was thinking Sig vs Reserve.

Yes, we love it. The turbo gives it excellent acceleration without any turbo lag and the handling is very crisp. The entire infotainment system is still pretty primitive. NAV included. 25 MPG averaged over about 5k mi. Rural, city but not much stop and go commuting. No clue. I've never...

Is this the noise you're hearing? https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123867632-Very-faint-high-pitched-quot-mosquito-quot-sound/page2&highlight=buzzing If so, I can report that it's totally gone after about 5k mi. My theory is that it's fuel pump or injector related and noisier...

For the 2.5's it was recommended to use 0W-20 Mazda synthetic because of the extra dose of Moly which was beneficial for Skyactive engines. Apparently Mazda doesn't sell a 5W-30 synthetic. (only Dino) I went with Mobil 1 5W-30. I'm curious why Mazda doesn't do a synthetic 5W-30 with extra...

I'm preparing for my CX-5's first oil change. The first surprise if that 5W-30 is the new recommended viscosity for the 2.5T vs 0W-20 on non turbo models. Are crush washers still used on the drain plugs for 2.5T models and are they the same spec. as previous models. I can't seem to find...