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If you haven't done a tune yet, that is by far the most noticeable thing you will do to it short of $$$ internal engine stuff which is not well supported in the aftermarket for these cars.

Try the M2O Facebook group... We have a few IA owners on there. It is primarily focused on the 11-14 Mazda2, but the IAs and newer 2s are welcome. This forum is basically dead, pretty much everyone is there instead now. https://m.facebook.com/groups/431895740279303?ref=bookmarks

There is a cubby to the left of the steering wheel, it's pretty high up and pointing almost straight down.

That's what happens with those pinch type bushings in those alternators. Need to pry it off and/or wiggle it back and forth. Use a ~2ft pry bar or giant screwdriver to pry between the alternator and engine block. Before you reinstall you need to push the bushing in the alternator outwards some...

No problem! FWIW going to a parts store, asking for #5464 will probably help you find them faster as that is the general inventory number for those plugs. I've found spark plug numbers can confuse the hell out of some parts guys.

There is no choice... 5 speed or GTFO. :p I didn't mention trans because the OP wants it to see what options his car has... I'll bet money he can count the pedals, haha.

You could print it out if you really wanted... I have never purchased it myself, because I have access through work... perks of the job. :) You could try buying a digital copy via Ebay or something such as this...

Yeah that old Miata has literally nothing in common with the system used on the Mazda2. The 2 has a considerably more complicated system and the bulb is an LED soldered to the circuit board that cannot be bypassed since the logic is communicated over a CAN BUS system.

Glad you're enjoying it! FWIW me and Jeff both ended up running 33 psi in the front, I favored 35-36psi in the rear usually, and I think Jeff liked a bit less(33-34) in the rear with the same tires. I would occasionally run up to 38psi but only on our higher grip concrete site where I could get...

Assuming the hood is latched completely, and when you apply upward pressure the hood height is about right, all you need to do is adjust the two rubber snubbers: If the hood latch needs adjusted, there should be a bit of play if you loosen the two bolts on the plastic radiator support to...

If you get an Alldata or Mitchell subscription I can confirm those are the same OEM manual republished. Only difference is Mitchell has modified wiring diagrams to their own way of doing it. Easier to read mainly, but I've used both at work and it just depends on what I'm specifically looking at...

It's literally exactly the same as every other Touring model from 2011-14. They had two trim levels, touring and sport. No line item options.

If the A/C was on it could well be normal... Only coming on when the high side pressure hits the pressure limit triggering the fan on. Could also mean a low charge, I know especially during hot weather mine will run continuously when the A/C is on. If A/C performance is OK then I wouldn't...

Since your's is an American market 2, it should be the ZJ part number, which is exactly the same as Denso #SK16PR-E13(the stock plugs even have both of these numbers on them... The number you have is an updated part number though I'm guessing). Also has Fomoco on the plugs too. I'd...

I know there was some speculation as to what stock spring rates for the 2011-2014 Mazda2 actually are. Well someone asked about it and mine are all off the car(because Eibach springs) so borrowed a friend's corner weighting scales and used a press to at least get a rough idea of the spring...

Looks good, FYI if you do want to brace it more, do NOT attach it to the battery bracket because where you have it attached(the engine) moves around... the battery does not. If anything you'll need to tie it into the transmission/engine below it to keep it from moving around. I'm not sure how...

They're buzzy little cars. That's just how they are(to an extent). They'll idle around 550-600rpm with AC off, and closer to 700-800 with AC on. Almost for sure is going to be motor mounts if it truly is excessive, you can try loosening the pass side motor mount at the frame end, then...

If there is no play in the hubs, and no noise(usually a low rumbling or humming) from them, normally changes in tone or pitch while turning one way or the other at higher speeds... There's really zero reason to change them on a daily driver. I've got 95k on mine, which includes several hundred...

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I'm here and on the Facebook page. I demodded mine for daily driving because 700lb spring beat you up driving 30k per year. Got a cheap beater Miata for track stuff, but I suspect the 2 will see more shenanigans in the future maybe 3-5 years from now... FSP build possibly.