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i suppose you should be able to tilt the radiator a little bit if you remove the top holders. Usually it is held only by bushings in the lower portion and everything on it should be either wire or flexible rubber hoses.

Can be, it can also be the teeth of the inner differential in the transmission, the teeth have a tendacy to chew up after a long time. Only way to know is to take the PTU out. If you don't need the awd, just leave it out but if you need it, it could be an expensive repair.

The awd definitely doesn't work if the 4wd light flashed but looks like you might have more than one problem. Transfer case is usually the problem but it could be your rear diff. Also check the bushing on the drive saft. If the diff is shaking it can be the rear diff bushing also. You really...

Do you intend on keeping the car for a long time? I would just replace it, not worth getting stranded somewhere because it blew up.

Feels like an ECM, anything looks anormal in that corner? Might be wiring or connector, check for rodent damage on the wiring, especially behind the battery near the ECM. Check ABS module also. Any aftermarket gizmos installed on the car?

First guess would be the obvious like injectors, fuel pump, try a new MAF...

have you been able to retract the electric motor like in service mode? (don't even know if it can be done on Mazda) If not, you need to remove the motor to be able to push the piston back. Did the piston completly came out or is it still in it's cylinder? did it leak fluid or not?

What year? Check out this website: https://parts.mazdausa.com/ This would be my guess AW20-19-930C

Left rear is driver side but yeah, you should check with the charcoal canister, there should be a solenoid there too. Only fuel vapor in there unless you really have a problem. Your problem is probably in that area, can be a plugged line or a stuffed canister.

if it didn't leak when you blasted it, than my guess is it is still clogged. If water runs only with AC on, that means it is still full. Did you do it in the first place in a preventive matter or because you were hearing the water slouch around?In any case, that hose should be behind the carpet...

Low pressure in the system, happened to me before, get it filled and checked for leaks.

It is supported by a bearing behind the engine, you need to unbolt it from the engine because it is probably stuck in the bearing holder. 3 bolts if I recall.

never done it but the pictures looks like the fronts are easy if the bolts don't break on you. Rear are the big job, you might need some creativity if you want to do it in place, otherwise you will need to take the whole subframe off and use a press. This is definatly an advanced DIY type of thing.

i would guess they are wired together, if one doesn't work it must be in the element in the seat itself, doubt it can be fixed in any other way than swapping the seat or tearing it apart and try to repair the element.

on a gen 1?

could be lots of things like rear main seal or axles seals. You will need to clean it up and monitor to see what is leaking. If it's not a big leak, i would leave it like that, check transmission level from time to time and clean the leak every oil change or so.

weird you say difference in handling because the awd is not activated until it feels something slip so it shouldn't drive different unless you are in snow or in really bad terrain. If the splines a all chewed, you can leave it like that, won't change anything. If you want to be sure, take out...

look at the power steering pump then. If you put a new belt on maybe it is too loose.

haha didn't want to say it but i kind of agree :LOL:

well seems like a transmission problem, if the engine works, not an engine problem